I'd like to try to resolve this issue before this season begins. I've had this basic double 90's since I started. My stove is in a bad spot in comparision to every object vertically above it. So I had to move the out let over. It wasn't so bad with the NC13, but with the NC30 I noticed the effects on the draft more rapidly (ie powdery soot collects, thus why I want to change). If I could come out and end in some more gentle angles I'd be for it. But locally it's basically generic pieces. It's got like 2 three foot pieces and the the 2 crankable 90's (which barely fits) Can I cut stove pipe to fit? Order to fit ?
I have a couple 30 degree bend in the chimney pipe, just installed one low and one high. Do they make that in stove pipe?
They may but it would have to be short 30's. Cause length is my greatest issue, unless I can get different length than 3 ft pieces... Unless I'm looking at it all wrong. That's kinda of why I threw it out here. To get something going.
It would be ugly, but a 30 right over the stove and one clear up at the ceiling would probably be about right.
Chvymn, thats why there are those adjustable bands on those 90's. I have pretty much the same restrictions at the cottage and was going to double 90 the vent as you have. I just adjusted the 90's down a bit to make it flow better and less restriction. I don't think I would put an "adjusted down" 90 at the stove top-probably better to have a straight length coming off the stove.
I'd get two 45° pieces. Put one at the support box, then a short piece of pipe then the other then straight into the stove. You should be able to cut single wall on the female end without problems. Example:
what about a bend t the stove top level then straight up? It might look funny though. We have a few stove shops near us that measure pipes to fit as well that may be an option near you too.
Should be o.k.? As long as you recrimpped the end? That looks a lot cleaner as well, plus the added benefit of better draft.
Before I got to concretes post, his setup is what I had in my mind. 45 deg offsets may do the trick and be able salvage a decent looking finish.
I'd stay as high as possible with 2 45s. Put in a short straight piece between those if needed. You can get pretty creative with those adjustable elbows. concretegrazer's example is a gooder one.
Would like to add that the 45's may get you a better, less restrictive gas flow in the flue than the 90's.
Yes, that it does cause a draft issue and potential fire hazard if I don't keep on top of it. But as it stands I basically have to tilt it back and rotate the elbow into the pipe as I'm bringing it back in. Just a pain. As soon as I get some stuff squared away in August I'll probably try to cut a pipe to length and replace them all with new. Then try a new configuration this winter. .
Well...I just got around to it. Still have the adjustable elbows, but at much less of a angle. Time will tell, but on the first fire I'm pretty happy so far.
Looks like a major improvement. If that doesn't get you where you need to be, I use double wall pipe with two 45s at the ceiling to achieve the offset. Then, an adjustable section on top of the stove to maximize the straight vertical shot before any bends. Its not a cheap solution but drafts well and stays clean. Offset chart is on the last page and telescoping piece is on the bottom of page 4 http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/dvl_durablack_L820_2012-sept_w.pdf
