I have a 25 inch bar on my new Stihl MS362 which is supposed to be max length for this saw, according to Stihl. But I wonder do some people run longer bars with out issue on theses saws? I cut up a big log (30-36" dia Pin Oak) today. Now, I got by fine with my 25" bar, but I buried it full length in that log and as long as I didn't crowd it, and kept the power to it, it just kept on cutting, without bogging down. I had to roll the log anyway, as I didn't want to get my chain in the dirt, so really I didn't need a longer bar, and I don't normally cut trees this big, but this one was dead and had been dragged into a field about 2 years ago and was given to me to cut up and haul for free. The question came up today, because my cousin offered to loan me his MS360 with a 28" bar. He has had it a long time, and it had a fair amount of use with that bar on it. He was told when it was new, that it would handle a 28" bar and it does. My question is was he told wrong or is he fine with the 28" on that saw, and if he is Ok than, I would think my saw the MS362 would also handle a 28" bar. Are the factory specs just a guide line, that can be pushed a little bit without issue? People with more experience then me, please comment.
I use a 36” light bar on a 460. Never looked at the recommended max bar length. It cuts good and is easier to handle than an 084 with a standard 36” bar. I don’t know if those specs are based on what length can be effectively oiled or power. It should be obvious if it can’t oil or pull a longer than recommended chain. I wouldn’t want to buy a 42” light bar and find out my 462 could not pull it.
Realistically, it would run a 28” bar. I would only do it for very rare occasions. A 2 foot bar is max id want to go on a 60cc class saw. If you feel you’ll need a bigger bar consistently I’d get a bigger saw. 70-80 cc shine for 28” bars. You have to make sure the oiler can keep up and balance can be an issue with a too long bar on a small power head. You’re carrying around excess weight, it’s more unwieldy, Not to mention the saw could bog down too much. If you’re debating leaving the 28” on the saw year round, I’d definitely recommend a bigger saw and get a 32” bar. You already have a 25” on your saw. Get a 80cc saw with a 32”. This isn’t a dig on your cousin, but does he use the saw a lot or only cut s couple cords a year kind of thing?
You could probably run a bigger bar than 24” on a 60 cc saw using skip ,or semi skip chain . I don’t think engine power would be the problem . But oiling a longer bar would .
T The 362 is the evolution of a 360 so in a sense they are the "same" saw. I run a 28" bar on my 460 (77cc) but have run a 36", but have on occasion run a 36" bar, but with "full skip" chain. This meaning the teeth are spaced farther apart than a standard chain so it wont bog down constantly in the cut. My 361 (in between the 360 and 362) came with 18" Stihl and 22" Carlton bars when i bought it used last month. Eventually i may get a 25" for it but for now it wears the 22" Last month i was bucking some 23" sugar maple with the 361 (460 was in the shop). Put the 28" bar on the 361 and it worked fine. So IMO a 28" bar will work but i wouldnt buck too much huge wood (the length of the bar) with it. As stated there may be oiling issues. If the saw was ported and muffler modded (aftermarket alterations to the engine) it would do fine with a 28" bar cutting big wood. FHC member T.Jeff Veal has a 362 with these alterations.
I had huskihl do the work on our 362. 28" might be a bit much for a stock saw, it does fine with 28", just make sure oiler is turned all the way up. I normally run 25" on it though.
Ok, Thanks to everyone. By the looks of my cousin's saw, he used to use it quite a bit. I will just stay with the 25" I mostly just like the longer bar for reach, as I don't cut many big logs or trees. However, I did yesterday. I stuck my saw only once, but one wedge got me loose. Took me 2 tanks of fuel on the Stihl, ran out of gas and had to finish the last cut with my Jonesred. After running the MS362 and then switching to the Jonesred, I could easily tell the difference in power, but the Jonesred did Ok, just had to go a little slower and not crowd it, as it has a pretty hungry chain on it. Its nice having that back up saw available.
As a general "guideline", I'd say... 50cc saws do best with 16"-20" bars 60 cc saws do best with 18"-24" bars 70 cc saws do best with 20"-28" bars 80 cc saws do best with 24"-32" bars 90 cc saws do best with 32"-42" bars
Thanks, That's good information for basic rule of thumb. I was just curious what people actually ran who used longer bars. Around here where I live, for most people, 20' bar is the their big saw, unless they are a professional logger or something. But now that I have some saw time under my belt with a longer bar, I am sold on the longer bar even when I don't need it, really. I hate bending over, it hurts my back.
The 460/1 R oil pump bolts right on if that idea interests you. Or you can put the HO pump guts in your existing oil pump. I'd recommend it for a 28" bar.
Sorta. 91 drivers is a lot to ask of a 60cc saw in stock trim. Especially in hardwood., just let it take it's time. And yes the stock pump on a 362 isn't gonna do the job on 91 drivers in hardwood.
You can use the pump out of a standard model or and R model. It's the same thing, the R model pump just has a smidge more flow. On a stock saw it will run out of oil before the gas is out so be mindful of that.
