Sharpening out nicked teeth Advice please

I have a .325 pitch Oregon chain which has some nicked teeth from brush cutting.
When I use my usual 3/16" file,I am getting deeper into the curvature or "gullet" than I'd like and not taking enough off the cutting surface.
Would using a larger diameter file get the nicks out then I can finish the cutter surface angle with the regular size? I have both 13/64 and 7/32 files I could use.
Thanks.

 

I am far from an expert in this area but when mine get this far down it’s time to go see the grinder. Get them sharpened and it’s like starting new again. I am sure with all the talent we have on here somebody will know if there’s another option.

 

That was my first thought,too. I just wanted to see if I could fix it myself and learn something.I have a local guy who will fix it on his grinder for around 5.00,if necessary.

 

Yes you can use a bigger file To grind back the damage. A file roller will help you not get too deep in the gullet.

 

Your problem is exactly why I bought a grinder.... or 3.... I was cutting a lot of fence row trees & would inevitably hit wire, nails or staples. When I cut hedge posts I often hit frozen dirt in the bark or in hollow spots so my chains get pretty banged up.
I would use a flat file, eye ball the witness mark & go across the face to get the nicks & dings out, then come back with a round file to sharpen them up. This lead to lots of different length teeth & some variety in the angles. In my experience the different length teeth don’t make that much difference as long as the depth gauge is lowered accordingly for each tooth but it’s nice to be able to true up the angles every so often & occasionally even up the teeth.
I still hand sharpen but if my chains get nicked up too bad I slap them on the grinder for some “trueing up”.

I have read several times that trying to hold your file up, “pick up” on it while filing will help with getting too deep.

Are you using a file guide or free hand filing?
If you are free handing it you may want to invest in a file guide, they will help with your depth.
Also if you are heavy handed when filing you will most likely get too deep.

Just my experiences & opinions.

 

Put more up force in your stroke so you don't dive in.

 

Lots of options with nicked/rocked chains as described above. When I rock one or get one in my shop, I usually try to guess how long it’ll take me to save it by hand.


I am nearly always wrong... I can get a lot of time into a chain.

 

One of these puppies will help ya keep the proper hook on each cutter.
And the progressive style raker gauge will keep you cutting straight no matter how different the length of those cutters become.

As far as removing damage, why not just use the proper size file? Take light strokes till the file starts cutting smooth, then apply more pressure. My last oak score had me bumping the ground frequent producing this:

PITA but the wood was worth the metal lost on a loop of chain. 135 drivers isn’t exactly fun either.

 

2in1 by Pferd or Stihl.
No need for a power grinder or roller or "free hand".

 

Filing is for secretaries.

 

Like: Secretary General.
Like: Secretary of State.
Like: General Party Secretary.

"I file, therefore I am." E. Pressley

 

Like...."Secretary of State"
Like..."Secretary of Defence"
Like ..."Party Secretary" ( USSR )
Like..." Secretary of Labor"
Like... etc, etc...
The above do not "file".

 

So what you're saying is that the top brass understand that grinding is superior. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

 

I find it very rewarding..

 

Well I have been a machinist all my life and anything beyond precision type fitting work I find very tedious and pushes my arthritis into overdrive.

 

I’m slowly getting there. I see a rheumatologist end of this month. My hands/knuckles flare up if I’m not careful.

 

How do you get these magnified pics?

 

Yeah how bout it. Crazy cool.

 

My iPhone has a separate magnifyer on it that you can use for pictures or you can hit take photo then blow up/zoom to get close ups.