Dvl stove stove pipe outlet connection question

I am planning for our stove install hopefully in the next few weeks. All the dvl stove pipe and Class A parts are here.

We are putting in a Jotul Castine that has the outlet that can be used straight out the back or spun 180 for a top vent set up.

I have Duravent double wall dvl and plan to use the connector with key damper for the first connection and then up with adjustable dvl to the ceiling support box. The dvl is supposed to set right on the stove outlet collar, no screws. The outer pipe on the dvl sits on the outside of the outlet collar, and the inner pipe with crimps fits inside the stove outlet.

The issue I have is that the cast iron outlet on the stove is a little short, so the dvl does not seat all the way. The outlet collar is better suited for single wall stovepipe, but we are using dvl up to the ceiling.

Here is a pic of the first connector sitting on the outlet, not level.




This pic is the front side of the first connection hitting the outlet. This is where the hang up is.



First connector moved to level. Blue tape shows how much more it could/should be seated.






My thought is to cut the outer wall of the first connection on the front side in the contour of where it hits the outlet.

Any thoughts on this? The inner wall wall will sit down well into the outlet if I go that route. We are farming the install work out for insurance reasons. Ceiling has been opened up and we have a straight shot up between roof rafters. It should install well.

 

Better side view of the outlet collar. Right side near blue tape has angle rise to it, not straight vertical rise.

 

Nothing installed yet. The issue is the outlet collar does not have enough vertical wall all around it for the dvl connector to seat. Outlet issue, not stove level issue. I need the connector to sit lower onto the collar.

 

The connector slides down into the collar, but won't seat because of the outer wall bottoms where my finger is. It really needs to go in maybe another inch or so.


Side view.

 

Yeah, no. The stove is level, the collar is level. Eric isn't level...

That outlet collar is mounted 45°on the back of the stove. So the connector is sitting on the collar only a half inch or so on the left side in this pic.

 

Haven't seen one. The install videos on YouTube show the dvl dropping right down on the outlet of many stoves with a normal outlet collar.

 

I know what you are saying. Single wall crimp down with dvl adaptor.

 

Well, yah certainly shook the crickets off the thread and I thank you for that.

 

Can you cut an inch (or whatever is needed) off the outer wall so it will set down on there properly?
I think they make an adapter pipe that is meant to be used first off out of the stove too.
And if I recall correctly the space between the inner and outer pipes is supposed to remain unobstructed...

 

I guess I was thinking of the one that Selkirk makes...
https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...mper-kit/dsp6dk-1/p-1444453719719-c-19451.htm

 

That looks more of what I need. I've only found two Duravent connectors. With or without dampers.

I could scribe and cut the outer. Trying to keep it minty and clean. Cutting sheet metal already bent in a circle could be a bit of a challenge.

 

I know each manufacturer has their own unique way that class A chimney pipe goes together...but I wonder if that Supervent piece would work to start off then switch to your Duravent the rest of the way?

That outer layer shouldn't be too bad to cut...either use aviation tin snips, or a 4" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel would do a nice job on that...just mark it in pencil, then take your time and carefully follow the line...mist a bit of high temp black spray paint on it if the cut shows (it shouldn't)
Also, just FYI for anyone not familiar, red handled aviation snips are for cutting on the right side of something (cutting to the left) so some people call them right handed, even though they can be used with either hand...and then you have the green handled snips, which is the opposite (cuts to the right) and yellow which is meant for straight cuts...but any of them can do straight cuts also...

 

I could check the specs on the diameters of both brands. Slip fittings, no twist locks until Class A up top.

I have snips, the outer pipe is not too thick.

Thanks for the advice brenndatomu