For some reason I had 250 stuck in my brain. (Which is 492 deg F) Yes, bearings in the case bores makes sense to me to as far as properly locating them. Too many guys on AS posting what they got away with.... FWIW, I didn't have to get over 300 deg F to get the bearings to pop right into the case bores or assemble the crank into the bearings.
I noticed that you have an electric oven, they get hotter and heat more evenly than a gas oven, so I'm not surprized. The bearings need to be at the bottom of the bearing cup with the outer race against the cup shoulder. Puting the bearings on the crank will leave them out of contact with the bearing cup shoulder and make it much easier to spin a bearing, which will ruin the case in most instances. The last time I was at HVA in Sweden I watched two female workers standing at the end of the paint curing oven with a freezer full of bearings, they would flip the case over so the gasket surface was up and drop in the appropriate bearing. I don't know for sure but I'll bet the paint cure over was at 200°C!
Dang Brian I missed the most important thread on the site..... congrats my friend! My wife and I find out what we'll be having next this thursday.
N/P. MM, . I understand your a busy man, and family comes first. But thanks for posting this it's kinda of cool process. And a learning moment....
I noticed the shoulders on the case, and that's why I assembled in the order that I did. So who wants to see the video of the case halves not going together quite as smoothly as I planned?
Hahaha I did get to run it and Dex isnt getting his mitts on it anytime soon. He, joshmain and myself (plus the boys) had a nice time running the 70cc saws. The 7900 runs really well and just feels nice. I picked up my 346 on the way and ran it in the 12x12. It really held its own. Eric builds a nice saw.
That messing about with a hot case is bad enough with the bearings, let alone trying to get the crank in both sides and keep the gasket where it is supposed to be. Buy the tool, you won't have burnt fingers when you are done. Lincoln welding gloves are also a big help, my wife uses them for oven mitts!
Wait a few tanks till she breaks in, then you will get the full effect! They are very nimble for an 80cc saw! I am so glad that you are pleased! And Master Mech put up your video.
I must admit, that 7900 was nice. And it ran great to have an unmolested muffler. Although running the 046/460's was nice (HittinSteel had a Minty 056, my 460, and Joshmain's 460) the 346xp that Eric did was the biggest shocker. It felt faster than the big saws. Timed cuts, it wasnt, but man that is a bad saw!! I want one bad now!!
As stated earlier, not every saw on the planet benefits from a MM. The 7900 is one of them. Take out the screen and open up the factory outlet a little and put the screen back! It is very easy to mistake 'loud' for better performance.
I tried that, didn't go so well. Parts came out nice and clean but the pump on the dishwasher started making a funny noise......
A while back I tried to pull that dishwasher trick with my wife, it didn't work. 1. She was pizzed as all get out 2. The dishwasher detergent changed the color of the bare aluminum parts. She stormed out of the house and jumped in her truck and took off. Returned about 45 minutes later with a new 20 gallon parts washer in the truck "the oven is one thing but my dishwasher is off limits" was her only comment.
So, a little update on the saw, I have it mostly together and I have to correct an issue with a wrong flywheel side seal before we can enjoy a cookie cuttin' video.
Stihl recommends putting a little Dirko or 1194 around the outer surface of the sealing ring where it meets the case prior to installation. I have started doing the same thing with HVA saws I restore. Do yourselves the favor of getting the factory seal puller be it Stihl or HVA, that drywall screw method can cause big problems bu maring the sealing ring surface in the case.