Chipper help

Not being mechanically inclined I'm not sure what I'm looking at here.

This is an Amerand MacKissic homeowner chipper shredder. The chipper flywheel stopped turning with power even though the shredder/hammermill would still turn. The key is broken obviously but does this flywheel bushing or the shaft itself need to be replaced?

 

Have it honed to see how it cleans up. Worst case bore it and bush it. It’s just damaged from the key getting loose and eventually rolling in the bore. You can clean the shaft yourself with some emery cloth, maybe a fine flat file to do the starting smoothing.

 

Almost need to see an IPL, but looks like maybe it just needs a new key.

 

Possibly...we need more pics/ info...

 

What's an IPL?

That pic is a couple of washers on the shaft in front of a circlip and the remains of the broken key in the groove in the shaft.

So not knowing exactly what an intact key looks like, I'm guessing it sits in the groove on the shaft and engages the groove on the bushing that attaches to the flywheel?

That bushing is OK to use with the material gouged out of it?

 

Illustrated Parts List?

 

Winner winner.. Chicken dinner

 

Illustrated parts list...basically a drawing of how it goes together...and usually has part names and numbers.
An intact key is usually square...same height and width...ties the driver to the driven.
I think the grooves should be fine as the whole assembly normally turns as one unit...unless the key shears off.
Kinda guessing here since I've never been into one of these before...an IPL would clear things up a bunch if there is one available...should get able to find one...or we can look it up if you have the make and model number of the machine...

 

I can't accept the trophy, I had to search it!

 

In my opinion, being able to find the answer is equally as important.

The Google does make things a lot easier than a trip to the library.

 

OK that makes sense, wasn't completely understanding what a key does.

Heres from the company website
It doesn't show the key
http://www.mackissic.com/Assembly Drawings/12P Assembly and Parts List.pdf

here is photo of a manual I found online years ago but can't find now, the key is part 40 and the bushing part 34.

 

Ok, yeah that is just a taper lock collar/ coupling...clean things up enough to get a new key in there and you are good to go.
You can buy key stock at any farm store and many hardware's...just need to cut to length to fit.

 

Great! I'll see what I can find locally. Thanks for the help, I owe you a beer or theee.

 

Did the lock collar come off ok? On those taper locks you usually have to take the threaded setscrew looking pieces out of their holes and put them into the empty hole(s) 90 or 180 degrees away...when you thread them in that pushes the lock collar out. When the screws are in the other holes, tightening them tightens the collar to the shaft and cutter wheel...I'm guessing you will want to set the cutter clearance before tightening the screws down...you will not be able to slide the cutter wheel on the shaft after tightening...and check the cutter clearance again afterwards because tightening the lock collar very likely will move the whole wheel...can be a trial and error thing to get the clearance right with the screws tight...which speaking of, those need to be torqued to a spec so things don't come loose again...coming loose would allow the key to shear again...might be why it happened this time. Some blue loctite on the screws wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

Here's a popular brand Taperlock bushing...can't quite see the numbers on yours to ID the brand, but this will be very similar to yours (EDIT: yours is a Dodge...now called Baldor-Dodge) this one says the screw(s) get tightened to 280 inch-lbs.
Martin - 1610 1 3/16 - Motion Industries
Here is the Dodge bushing too...
DODGE, TAPER-LOCK BUSHING, 117165, 2012 X 1-3/16 KW, 1-3/16" BORE, LOT OF 2 | eBay

 

SKEETER McCLUSKEY may have something to add here since he works on the larger commercial versions of this thing all the time...

 

Welcome