We moved this year from a 1200sq ft ranch with a finished basement that was very well insulated this year. Move into an old very leaky 2400 sq ft house. With one stove going so far the furnace is going fairly often too to keep up temps and it isn't even that cold yet. Looks like I'm gonna go through a lot of wood this year. Working slowly on gutting the house and refinishing while insulating. Gonna be a few years until I get this whole house done and looks like I'll be going through a lot of firewood, need to ramp up my wood collecting.
Yep... You started a thread someplace talking of 2 stoves? Looks like a cheap refurb Englander is gonna be the ticket.. I'm telling ya, the 30 is a Heat monster. The 13 or even the TVL17 would be a great little stove for extra heat elsewhere? Menards had a sale on there 6" and 8" Class A? The 17 is $539 shipped and pretty sexy looking? And that is the stove that you can put where the BK is when you sell the joint? You need to see how large my basement is (opened up a lot more recently) and see how hot I can get an un insulated brick basement. Englanders are cheap Steel stoves. But man they Crank. Got mine Crankin now
That's exactly what I was thinking, putting an NC30 in the kitchen. Looking into where the best placement in the kitchen is now.
Well, a lot has changed, and still changing from last season. Last weekend, I started to paint the stove room. While doing trim, the Wife says I should take the wall down, open the room up and move the "Bar" over to this side of the basement? So I am still painting the walls, floors will be done also, then a Hearth for the 30 (has to look good), then bring Pool Table, Foose ball table, and 12 ft bar over (and probably add Air hockey or Table Tennis/Ping Pong) Sorry about the hijack.. I forgot the link to AMFM above also. http://www.amfmenergy.com/manufacturer-refurbished-stoves.html
Nice....Looks good. To Swags...I think this stove would be perfect for you. I would be worried about overheating the kitchen if it's closed off.
Not closed off, has an opening that leads into the dining and living room. The house is pretty symmetrical with the Princess being on the other end of the house. And we have a three season sun porch off the back of the kitchen I'm working on insulating in. I could open that door to cool it off a little if we overheat the kitchen.
Thanks. I bought the paint for the basement and the stove last season. But never got to it. The paint for the stove is Honey Glo brown (Stove Bright). The paint for the walls and floor was buy 5 gallons get 5 gallons free. So I went Hog Wild!!! 5 gallons is around $100-$135 depending on the brand of paint you buy. I jumped all over it. The linknis hard to see in my post above. But AMFM sells refurb units with Full Factory Warranty. Pretty good deal. Unless you find that $650 deal from HD?? Hasn't happened in awhile though
Have you thought of closing off portions of the house that you aren't using so you can reduce your heat demand? If you just doubled the square footage, do you really need to use all of it right away? This would allow you to spend less time scrounging and more time renovating/insulating/air sealing.
We do have a portion closed off upstairs. The downstairs is a little hard to close anything off. The windows are the biggest thing I think. All single pane and some are cracked up. Those are getting replaced soon so that will help.
I'm a big fan of the window film for the single pane windows.. Saved me a buttload a couple of years ago by stopping the air infiltration. Would likely reduce your need for the second stove and certainly enable you to use your furnace/boiler less....
Thought about the window film but were fixing the house up with the intention to sell it sometime. So we decided on new windows, don't really want to go through all the work of putting film in 23 windows for just a few weeks of use. So I'll stick it out until we get some more work done on the house.
Sounds like a plan. didn't realize that you were replacing the windows so soon. With winter coming you certainly have the motivation to "get 'er done".
Swags, we started buttoning up our house two years ago and are still working on it. Added insulation in the attic over the summer. Big difference. We have old leaky windows also and my wife made some insulated curtains that work wonders, even if you get the new windows they will still help a lot.
If your leaky windows already have storms you are not going to see a massive difference ripping them out for double pane. I have both single+storm and double pane in various parts of the house and the double pane are not noticeably warmer once the old ones have been tightened up properly with weatherstrip. Vinyl v-seal weatherstrip is dirt cheap and works wonders on old windows. http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/21_973 If you have single pane with no storm you could add some inexpensive storms like Harvey Tru-Channel or Larson Gold and have 80% the performance of insulated glass at 1/3 the cost. More on restoring windows http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7aq8e/homewindowrestorationwork/index.html
Depends on the thickness of the glass. Our house is so old it has what is known as antique glass. Even with all the This Old House recommended insulations and rope caulking for the winter we can still hear the outdoors plain as day. Can't wait until I can afford to finish replacing the windows.
I didn't replace the whole window unit just the sashes themselves, lot less cost than the whole window unit. Course if the window unit framing has dry-rot issues and such then its a different story. My place was mostly electric, except heat (which was NG, but I put in a much higher efficiency unit) got everything I could converted to NG now except the built in Oven ( price- too expensive to replace and I do not use it very often) Next thing to do is add more insulation to attic got a bunch of fiberglass up there now so will be adding cellulose over the top. Fiberglass & rock wool breathes too much and actually loses R-value as the temps drop ( just found that out a few days ago, news to me) so that's why the cellulose. It doesn't have that problem and can be put in over the fiberglass with out difficulties arising.
