That was my thought...cutting the locust. The only thing ive ever cut that can compare in hardness is dead dogwood and dead barkless elm. Its a Carlton chain. Bought new over the Summer for the 20" bar on my 261 which was a virgin. I bought two new after i bought the saw (i think it came with a semi chisel which i dont use) Ended up never rotating two chains as ive gotten into the habit of sharpening on site and/or just prior to use. I used to rotate two, but seem to have got out of that habit.
Never used Carlton chain so can't/ won't comment. I put a chain on and it stays till it's done. Always on the lookout for dogwood. I'd let locust lay to get to some. Semi chisel will stay sharp longer in dirty wood.
I prefer Stihl chain but got cheap on ebay. Now that you mention it i have a bunch of used once cheapo semi chisel chains i bought on ebay a couple years ago. Like $5 each. Not knowing the difference i didnt like the way they cut even sharpened. I think they are Stens brand. Maybe ill try one on the locust. How does semi chisel cut locust? Would above the ground 18 month old locust qualify as "dirty" IYO? Years back my late father and i would drag standing dead dogwood out of his woodlot. There was lot of it. He would feed me on the sawhorse as i bucked. It burned HOT. It was in a basement fireplace. Fond memories.
Being 4 years ahead i separate all green wood together and keep a separate stack of quick drying, standing dead, downed and dryer stuff that can be used if i run out of "this years" wood. Right now it's all standing dead ash i fell out front.
I was asking about green fresh cut locust vs. locust that is wet laying on the ground TurboDiesel . This score is a combination of that. Having no experience with locust will they take the same time to dry? I want to keep all the locust together. This is stated for 2021-22. Maybe some of the dead for next season. IME wet dead wood will dry faster than green wood.
Off the ground locust should be clean. I only use semi chisel cause I never know what I'll find. Chisel is recommended for clean wood. It will cut faster than SC but dull faster if you get in dirt. I think I remember looking at a btu chart and dogwood was up near the top.
I have some Carlton chain. Pretty good stuff. At least compared to Oregon and even that has categories. Some trees just have the ability to swallow up fine minerals along with water. The deep furrowed bark certainly doesn’t help. Especially closer to the ground. Sand and dirt get kicked up in a heavy rain and stay in the furrows. I know when I was cutting my BL logs the keen edge went away fast. Still capable of cutting but you can sure notice razor sharp disappeared. I just went at it but that’s me. Saved the big hollow one full of dirt for last. Certainly needed sharpening on two saws when that was done.
I used to buy Carlton from the local power equipment place when i had my 028 and 026 back in the late 80's early 90's. They had a nifty little "file-o-plate" sharpening guide that worked great. Might still make it, dunno though. I bought these two Carltons cheap on ebay.
I use the File-O-Plates on my carlton and Oregon chains. I like them A lot! Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
Dumb locust questions: Would you mix barkless dead with green that has the bark on tight or do you stack them separate? If the barkless was ground contact and wet does it take the same drying time as green? All new to me! I have a combo of the two at the score im working.
Wet wood from being soggy is a lot faster to dry than wet wood from being green in most cases/most species. Green wood has its cell structure in tact and retains water better, seasoned wood that gets soggy means those cells have been broken or compromised and will release the juice more readily.
Seperate it Brad. Dead with bark falling off should dry faster. BUT locust bark will start to fall off pretty quick so it stihl may be green.
