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CaCl is costing me some $$$

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by cnice_37, Jun 7, 2014.

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  1. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    [​IMG]

    Option A) break it down and hope to clean it up enough to tube it, add in some ballast and call it done. Cost... Probably $50-150 depending on if I can break the bead and who installs the liquid. Thoughts on gently handling this?

    Option B) new rim, hope to save the rubber, tube it, and add ballast again. This will be $120 more than option A (price of rim.)

    Option C) if the rubber can't be saved... New rims, new rubber x2... Something in the $550 range more than A.

    Option D) turfs all around, $1k plus ballast cost.

    My thinking is A, if wheel is junk then B... If tire is junk then D. I'd prefer turfs, could add a mower in the future.

    Any other opinions or thoughts on breaking this down by myself? I think I would be more careful than local shop in trying to save the wheel.
     
    cnice_37, Jun 7, 2014
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  2. jetjr

    jetjr

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    I would go with r4 tires if you go new all around.
     
    jetjr, Jun 7, 2014
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  3. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    Why? Not a tractor guy, just ran the ags I bought it with which tear up the lawn so educate me on your preference.
     
    cnice_37, Jun 7, 2014
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  4. jetjr

    jetjr

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    They are not as aggressive as straight ags but offer more traction over turf tires. Still tear up a little in wet conditions though.
     
    jetjr, Jun 7, 2014
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  5. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    R4s have a much flatter profile than R1 (Ag) tires. They won't muck up a fairly firm lawn but will leave impressions in wet terrain just the same. There are some great R3(turf) options as well that get good traction in mud and snow but do not hurt turf until it gets real wet, like standing water wet. R3s are great options for machines that see a lot of time operating on paved surfaces as well. I would not do golf/ballon style turfs unless the machine is used on sensitive turf the vast majority of the time.
     
    MasterMech, Jun 7, 2014
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  6. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    For where this tractor goes R1's are overkill.

    It does do snow duty with the blower. So chains would more than likely be in order for either R3 or R4. I just can't see R4's being practical if I did decide to finish mow with it, but I've been wrong before.
     
    cnice_37, Jun 7, 2014
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  7. Guido Salvage

    Guido Salvage

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    What type of machine is it? I had the area around a valve stem get eaten up, welded a 5" x 5" plate on the inside, ground all the edges, tapped for new stem and painted it. Can you add weights rather than ballast?
     
    Guido Salvage, Jun 7, 2014
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  8. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    You're not going to want ballast in the tires if you are mowing with it. Machines that mow ideally need to be able to shed excess weight. Tire ballast is great for traction and stabilizing a loader but wheel weights and 3pt ballast will do that and have the benefit of being removable albeit at a higher cost than tire ballast.

    Chains on R3s can be a very capable combination. ;)
     
    MasterMech, Jun 7, 2014
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  9. Fanatical1

    Fanatical1

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    Calcium chloride is highly corrosive. I would not use this stuff myself.

    You won't know the damage on the rims until you remove the tires. I have Rimguard in my tractor tires (beet juice).

    If you don't need the ballast don't load the tires. The tire choice all depends on what you will be using it for. Your tires look to be in good shape?

    Good luck with the repairs...hopefully you won't need new rims.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
    Fanatical1, Jun 7, 2014
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  10. haveissues

    haveissues

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    I filled mine up with windshield washer fluid. Bought it online at advanced auto with a 40% off coupon and a few minutes after I placed the order the girl from the store called and said "did you really just order 60 gallons of windshield washer fluid" :rofl: :lol: It is a little lighter than CaCl but won't rot your rims and won't freeze.
     
    haveissues, Jun 7, 2014
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  11. Fanatical1

    Fanatical1

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    Another good and popular choice...:)
     
    Fanatical1, Jun 7, 2014
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  12. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    The main thing when loading tires with CaCl, CitraStar, Rimgaurd or similar is to make sure the rim is completely submerged. If it is not, the alternating exposure to the ballast and then to oxygen is what corrodes the rims. No leaks and the proper fluid level in the tire, and the rim will last a good long time regardless of what solution is used for ballast.
     
    MasterMech, Jun 7, 2014
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  13. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    It's a Kubota B2100 and I bought it used about 3 or so years ago. I knew it had liquid ballast after checking the air pressure one day. I noticed the corrosion probably 2 years ago, and I should have responded much sooner.

    I know CaCl is highly corrosive and if I will probably go the WW fluid route next to round. I did find a dealer with Rimguard and that has a decent amount more weight per gallon so I will price that option.

    I figure a good welder might save it... But only one way to find out. She wears a box blade when doing loader work, but being so light in the pants I would think a couple hundred pounds of ballast helps a lot.... Or I could start eating more.

    Ack... Good stuff as usual MM. Now about breaking that bead.... Log splitter the way to go?
     
    cnice_37, Jun 7, 2014
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  14. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    How many gallons do those tires hold? It may not really be enough weight to make the headaches worthwhile. While tire ballast will help lower the machines CG for loader work, it doesn't sound like you work it in real tough terrain anyways.... 3 pt ballast is much more effective because in addition to holding the azz end down (and generating more force on the rear axle per lb of ballast... ;) ) it unloads the front axle reducing the wear and tear on all that expensive 4WD hardware. Plus, when you're ready to mow, it's super easy to drop the weight. You can add weight to the box blade if it's not heavy enough to utilize the full capacity of the loader by itself, build a dedicated counterweight, and if that ain't enough, there are always wheel weights. 3 pt ballast can be seriously cheap too.

    I totally agree that if this is not a dedicated loader tractor (or close to it) and you do not need additional ballast on the tractor, skip it.
     
    MasterMech, Jun 7, 2014
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  15. lukem

    lukem

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    My uncle just bought an new Kubota and they filled the rears with water and methanol. Supposed to be easier on the rims and good down to -40.
     
    lukem, Jun 7, 2014
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  16. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Aka: windshield washer fluid. ;)
     
    MasterMech, Jun 7, 2014
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  17. lukem

    lukem

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    Pretty much....but a LOT cheaper to mix your own.
     
    lukem, Jun 7, 2014
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  18. haveissues

    haveissues

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    If the kubota dealer sold it, it is a special blend of kubota branded methanol / water. It just happens to be blue and cost 6 bucks a gallon :p
     
    haveissues, Jun 7, 2014
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  19. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    I'd go in expecting to need a new rim. Maybe you'll be lucky and it'll clean up and have some good steel still. You'll probably have to tube it but I won't run fluid without a tube anyway.
     
    concretegrazer, Jun 7, 2014
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  20. rookie1

    rookie1

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    Funny to see this thread today. Last week my neighbor who has a Case Sneaker trencher needed a tire repaired. It had calcium in a tube and the rim had a 3"x3" hole where the stem came out. I drained the calcium,welded a patch over the hole,drilled a new hole for the stem and filled the new tube with washer fluid. :)
     
    rookie1, Jun 7, 2014
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