I have been having a trouble getting a good edge, especially after I buggered up a chain when I hit steel in a yard tree, my Stihl ms362, 20" bar/chain. I use a Stihl 2-in-1 sharpener. I saw a Husqvarna file gizmo at Tractor Supply for $15, has the gizmo with the two rollers and also a slot for filing rakers. I haven't figured out how to use that properly, even after watching two videos! But I tell ya, I just grabbed the file and did it by hand and, my, you talk about dig in and cut, these files really cut! I dressed up that chain nicely pretty quickly. The rakers seemed to be fine, I suppose because I had been using the 2-in-1, which does rakers automatically. It doesn't seem too hard to keep a proper angle just hand filing. With this new file, maybe it's a secret, lol, having a good, sharp file! I do note that my 2-in-1 has some rust on the files and I have been wondering about that.
I'd replace the files on the 2in 1 if they are rusty. Nothin like a good sharp file. Keep at it and you'll be a pro in no time.
I also have not figured how to use those raker gauges. Some day. And when I do, it'll probably be one of those "duh, of course" moments
Yes, this is it. I was doing something wrong cuz it looks ridiculously simply on video, lol. It's prolly going to be a brain fart moment but I did try. Getting dumber each year, here's to hope in 2020 for a reversal but that's not likely. Whomever said it above, 10-4, I will replace the files in the 2-in-1. But I'm still going to research this Husky gizmo, I have read some posts over the years where people like it. But I think I did do fine just by hand. I think my rakers are too high, the saw just does not seem to be digging enough after a fresh sharpening. And it's a strong saw, ported 362. If I use the bumper spikes to put some torque on the bar, it cuts a lot better but seems to me it should dig right into the log. It's willow oak felled a month ago. Which I think is a red oak.
Yes I kept a file out on my screened porch for a season and one windy rainy day it was hit by mist pretty bad. A few days later I noticed a fine rust on it and the next time I went to sharpen the chain it was more like polishing. Bought another file next time I was at HD and back in business, but still I always feel like I want more bite like you describe with your Husqvarna. Maybe Ill look into getting one
Ive free hand sharpened since day one for the most part. Ive used Oregon guides, Carlton's "file-o-plate" and maybe another one or two guides over the years. Now its strictly free hand. Ive learned over the past couple years that a sharp file is just as important as a sharp chain. I buy chain saw files by the dozen....3/16 & 7/32". I do a lot of cutting so a lot of cutting = a lot of sharpening. Ill take chain off and use a vise for a really dull chain...hit nails, dirt etc. Most touch or "minor" sharpenings ill put bar in the vise. "In the field" is on the bar usually on the tailboard of my PU. As far as the rakers, ill eye ball the depth when chain is new and if it doesnt bite that well when i know its sharp, ill run the flat file over each one a couple times. Practice makes perfect Yawner as my mother likes to say!
Those raker gauges are the best way to maintain rakers IMO. Do some reading on progressive style gauges and you will see. They are super simple to use. Here’s two pics I stole from a post on ope. And the dedicated Husky part shown on bottom pic.
This is very informative. As is a Carlton pdf I’m trying to attach(without success). Might have to wait till I get home to my laptop to do so.
I asked my Stihl dealer about the 2 in 1 tool and his opinion on it was similar to the guy in the video. Save your money, file the way you've been doing. I've never left my depth gauges flat and I've never filed with the gauge tool in place like some guys do. I've filed my depth gauges a little more for pine and it sure can/does get grabby. I'll have to look for the Husky depth gauge tool. I have that skinny one.
I finally figured out that the Husqvarna gizmo was not seating properly. Assuming that I have it correct now, I do not find it intuitive to set it as such but it seems to be working and I got a much better filing this time, so, I guess it's right. I might like this once I get used to it. Does anyone know if the 'hard' and 'soft' slots on this Husky tool are 'progressive' as in the video above or would you need to buy the stand-alone Husky progressive depth gauge tool, a photo of which is shown above?
That Husqvarna roller guide is the best. I tried one in the 3/8" pitch and very quickly acquired one for almost every size chain I have. Couple that with a good file and sharpening is a pleasure. Best files I've ever used, for chainsaws, are Pferd brand, made in Germany. Bahco are good too. And yes, files are like sandpaper, after a while, you're just wasting time & energy. There is a reason they come by the dozen, or half dozen. Only drawback with those guides is they don't work with most of the extreme anti-kickback, safety chains. I don't buy those but when you buy a used saw and it comes with one of those that is practically brand new... I may just collect them and sell em as a lot on ebay one day.
The roller guide is a little finicky, and the instructions do suck, there is an arrow stamped inside it, that I believe needs to point toward the nose of the bar, on both sides. It's right when the guide is tilted back, slanting into the tooth. Yes, important to make sure it seats all the way and some chains are a bit of a pain.
Whew and I thought I was the only one having a bear of a time dealing with these things too. You’re not alone in this brain reversal issue....cool to start this thread off. I would suppose that at the GTG’s they would hold classes for those of us who can’t sharpen worth a spit?...I need to be an attend-ee if they do.
