Best chain grinder

Me three.

 

Oh... oh... I want to play! Me 4... eventually
I have been fairly impressed with the stock tecomec wheels that huskihl linked.

 

Using an Oregon 620-120



One thing you should be aware of on these grinders. In order for the grinding angle to be correct when you use the scale on the right side (-10 - 0 - +10). Put the scale on 0 degrees (in the middle), then move move the main grinding angle to 0 degrees (you would normally use 50-55 degrees). Now turn your front angle adjustment (30 - 0 - 30) to 0 degrees.

Put a small straight edge in the chain vise. Lower the grinding wheel until the grinding wheel arm is horizontal. Then make sure the center of the grinding wheel bolt lines up with the straight edge. Mine was off a tad, so I made a new 0 mark with a scribe above the -10 - 0 - +10 scale. Does that make sense? I normally use 10 degrees grinding angle on all my chains.

 

Your gauge dial (.043, .050, .058...) isn’t calibrated correctly. Neither was mine. Here’s how to calibrate it.
First, make 2 opposing cutters exactly the same length.
If you set the slide scale (down angle when filing) at 0, head tilt at 0, and the vise at 30, set the tooth stop to where the wheel barely touches the cutting edge of one of those cutters. Now spin the vise the opposite direction (to 30 on the other side) and drop the head to see where it contacts the other cutter. Adjust the gauge dial and repeat the steps above until the wheel barely touches those 2 same-length opposite teeth. Then remove the snap ring and dial on the front of the dial and reinstall it on the spline where it lines up with the gauge of chain that you used

 

From the horses mouth.



The only thing my gauge wheel does on my grinder is adjusting the hyd. tension on the vise.

The reason for this centering of the grinder wheel is to obtain the same 10 degr. down angle on both sides of the chain.



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It’s the same with any grinder. They need to be calibrated to sharpen teeth to the same length on the left versus the right side of the chain. Other models have an Allen screw with a jam nut, and would only work for one gauge chain without being adjusted every time you use a different gauge. The hydraulic vice simply allows you to do that with the thumb wheel on the outside which points to those different gauges. Using his method in the video, I don’t think my eye could get it any closer than 1/16”. I was trying to get the cutters within a few thousandths of each other. And the only way you’re going to be able to do that without measuring cutters every time you switch from right to left is by calibrating the gauge selector to center the vise.

 

This. Had to do the same thing with mine.

 

So what you're saying is that calibrating the gauge adjustment is a more accurate way of centering the vice. I'll check mine tonight


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Most definitely.

When you turn the dial, watch the back half of the vise move in and out. If the back half of the vise is toward you too far, it will make left-hand cutters shorter and leave right hand cutters longer

 

Just got done. Watch out not to loose the detent plunger. Had to adjust just a tad, and is now right on.

Thanks for the Pro Tip .


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I'll have to check mine too.

 

It came in today. Can't wait to try it out.

 

Not a pro. I just know what a pita it was on my old grinder until I took the time to understand it and get it adjusted correctly. On the Super Jolly, that 10* up/down angle slide really throws off the cutter geometry if things aren’t centered. I ground a chain and put a new mark at 2 or 3* just like you did. But ocd got the best of me and I had to figure it out so it was right. Glad it worked out for you

 

I bought one from them for picco chains. Not a bad wheel at all.

 

Nobody has posted a Silvey 510 yet, I am pretty happy with it.

As others have said, Tecomec makes the Oregon's too. The 511AX is for .325, the Tecomec has a prototype Silvey style vice, set up for rakers right now. (These are the experimental pawls, geometry wasn't quite right for cutters)

 

I put the tall holder on, it does hold the chain down better.

 

Do y'all ever have a burr turn up on the top plate when grinding a chain? I am having that happen with the CBN wheel. I'm not taking much off either. What's wrong?

 

It happens. Let it cool with the wheel spinning above it for a few seconds and give it a couple more taps

 

Anybody have any experience with the TEMCo automated grinder?

Seems pretty simple to get the hang of per their videos on the “Tube”. But, one has to change wheels to do the rakers and it does only full comp chain, no skip or semi.

 

Stump Shot does. I’ll ring him for ya