So I bought a chicom big bore kit to play with. The kit says for 372xp, did not pay attention to details or pictures. It arrived a few weeks ago. Had some the today and went to mess with it. The intake port on the kit is tiny lime half the size of the OE one. It clearly won't work as is bit wondering about the differences in the 372xo over the years? The one I have is a 2011 model, if u can tell from the tag, which I assume is the date? My saws intake is almost 2x the size of the kits. Can I just swap intake boots ? I an clearly not sending this thing back to china. And it will just go back up for sale on ebay if I can't fabricate it to work. To ebay to look for parts I go as I await the experts here. Picture of the kit I got.
if your saw is a 2011 then you don't have a bb kit for it. what you have is a big bore kit for the old school non x torq 372 . you can use it but you will need to use the old school boot on it.
Terry you dont have an old boot laying around you would like to sell would you? Ebay looks pretty bare today.
I see this thread is a month old but just in case.... I just ran into the same problem. Bought my chicom made big bore piston and cylinder kit from Baileys online. My 372 is an X Torq model with bigger intake. I looked at some saw diagrams and ordered a used 385 & 395 intake boot set up. Bought both from www.chainsawr.com for around $50. I had to watch for them to be in stock, which took two weeks. Arrived 4 days after ordering. They werent marked, but one of the boots worked with the other boots bracket and sleeve insert Fired it up last night, sounds good. Let me know if you need more details or pics.
I found the boot I needed on ebay, used, for like $9 shipped. Worked withe the xp bracket but I had to cut 2 little locating tabs on the bracket off flush with the lip are. ThisiI think was used to center the boot. The old style did not have notches in it for it so I cut them flush so the boot flange would kay flat. Worked fine and u have started up the saw. I still need a boot clamp now as the one on the xp is too big. I have a zip tie cinching it down now.
Believe it or not it fired up second pull and runs great. I haven't had to adjust the carb at all which I was expecting with larger piston, smaller different intake. Glad you found what you needed, great saw.
Well after 3 tanks I burned up the piston on the chicom set up. The cylinder is fine though. I had it running a little lean at first then had it running slightly rich. Trying to dial it in right, it started screaming at half throttle. Shut it down and it was real hot. No air leaks found in my boot set up so Im not sure what caused it yet.
I went with a cheapo piston for this MS 360 rebuild I am doing. I have Cabers on the way for the rings. Have read some threads elsewhere on this working. The nice thing about the cheapo piston I bought, is it has 1.5 mm rings. I ordered factory sized 1.2 mm x 48 mm Caber 036/360 rings and I checked the gap with a OEM ring I have. So before the 1.2 rings were even shipped, I ordered some 1.5 mm x 48 mm rings. So now I will have an extra set of them lying around... Again. . I have about $500 in this saw now. With all the new parts, it's gonna look brand new. Not to derail. This is still almost all chicom parts here (tank and plastic).
Nothing has jumped out as what the cause was yet. I have a MS260 pro and Husky 350 that are going to be due for rebuild soon too. Leaning away from the cheaper chicom crap after this piston, but not ruling out operator error yet...
WOW that is nasty!!! That looks like more than an air leak!!! More like straight gassed and over revved!! Not saying thats what you did but what it looks like!!
That is a pretty extreme seizure. I would definitely do a vacuum/pressure test if your gonna rebuild that saw or any others. There is a reason on why the saw seized in the 1st place. You need to fix that problem, before you fix the piston and cyl.
I feel your pain, overhauling and then having to go back to square one stinks! Not to sound like a broken record, but I would hunt for the failure or cause of the meltdown that happened in the first place. Air leaks/fuel restrictions? I just did a failure analysis on a gents 036. Found a hairline crack on the fuel line right by the carb. Seals and carb checked out fine.
As bad as it looks, it didn't seize, the cylinder is fine just a few very minor marks. Those will clean up easily. I will be sure to find the problem before I throw another piston in it. It wasn't straight gassed. It did over rev off the charts when this happened so I'm leaning towards air leak. I did just replace the intake set up. I was checking everything I just worked on every 5 mins. I'm not sure of the best way to check for air leaks? Thanks for all the info and help from everyone so far. Saw shop wanted $450.00, Im now into it $130.00 so far. Its a new saw that a relative straight gassed.
