Looking for what to buy on Amazon if you don't mind? First is 16' patio slider, micro burst whacked it, we are just lucky it didn't break the glass like the window 3' to the east, it literally flexed like 4". Thank goodness the insurance claim is rolling along but the draft is killing me and it won't get replaced till spring to I want to tighten it up. It's leaking cold air between the frame and the panes. WWW spray foamed the outside of the windows by my desk (see my stool in the pic) and we are using the right 1/2 for the door, but I need more protection from the draft where I am. Better ideas? (one of my cordless pleated blinds failed so the fleece snowman sheet is up for afternoons and direct sun hee hee) Front Door was not extremely tight when installed, but wow this old house and funky 1/2 assed "enclosed" porch shift like crazy. After being adjusted in both early spring and then again in late fall last year, it leaks terribly- wind from certain directions whistles through it.... As you can see both the frame and knob/lock have been adjusted more than once. s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509406206&sr=1-19&keywords=door+insulation Better suggestions?
Can you fit a storm door on that front door? Does wonders. I take it the strike plate's been adjusted so the door pulls tight when closed? I'd be REAL tempted to spray foam that whole patio door until I couldn't even see out the windows. Have I mentioned I HATE cold drafts?
I hate drafts too, but OMG this one is next to my desk where I am most of every day . Thanks Dave, yes both strike plates have been adjusted, I want to get in there with and chisel out some wood but I was told there's not enough room for more screw holes to adjust and fasten again properly? (then thoughts of gorilla glue to fill those gaps and re-drill cross my mind.....) Anyway with that said, a new storm door in our particular circumstance would be MUCH easier for our carpentry experience, thank you for pointing out the obvious that I tend to easily overlook. I very much appreciate you and others straight up advice. So new storm door, our door knob is on the left (see pic), do I need a left or right storm door? Patio sliding door--he spray foamed late summer when nights were getting cold but there were still insects flying so he did not foam so I could still open the doors and use the screen on nice days. Our nice days are gone for this year. Flying insects are now dead, heck ya we'll get busy with more spray foam!!
Right idea. I've used slivers of wood or wooden match sticks to fill the screw holes, then shim the plate out and re-screw the plate. I've heard that wood putty works too.
I plugged a lot of screw holes, wood glue and round toothpicks, push them in and break them off, then when you can't push them in anymore tap some more in with a hammer till you can't get anymore in and the hole is full, chisel flush if you need to
Thank You. We had both at our previous home and I couldn't remember which configuration it was I used to wrack my swollen knuckles on, now I do. Plan: new storm door, after that is installed, I'll fill screw holes in the steel door jamb with match sticks/toothpicks and some kind of construction glue and reset strike plates. And thank to you too HDRock, I'm still handy with a hammer and after all these years of chipping and splitting shims my cleaning lady suggested I use toothpicks instead on my favorite step stool- how did I never think of that!?! Same with screw holes!! Guessing I can google way to get the bolt holes in the right spot with chalk or a pencil?, but what about if/when the house shifts again in the spring?
On the service door, I'd pop off the trim and shim the jamb closer to the door. Should only be about 1/8" clearance between the 2. Looks like youre pushing 3/8. Use 3" screws behind the weatherseal and go through the shims. Readjust in the spring if necessary
, and yes, it appears so, clay underneath and inches/foot or two of sand loam on top. I don't know huskihl 's jargon, but from what I gather he is right, the original 1/3 of the home had a perimeter cement block foundation, the other 2/3 of this home (additions) do not have footers from what we've seen so far. OMG, I was born and raised 2 hours from here in a much nicer climate, and the homes were built so much better (and tighter insulation wise). Blows my mind but this is where we are at. Good thing though because we are just getting by with ObamaCare though the plan in 2013 was to save $1000/mon on our mortgage (we went from $400/mon for 3 of us to $1300 for just hubby and lil one, Grrrr). Anyway the good news is the flip side of loose regulations here is that we can do whatever we need to here to tighten it up and not worry about permits and inspectors like in Colorado.
My suggestion is to hang a heavy quilt over the part of the slider that isn't used. We used to hang quilts over our front door to keep drafts out from Kansas winds when we were renting. Works well. May not get sunlight, but you gotta pick your poison on whether you want light or warmth out of that thing right now.
Question pls? This door was bought "prehung" https://www.menards.com/main/doors-...48-c-9356.htm?tid=-8788392268459673138&ipos=3 I can shim the knob side of the door (ya, its 1/2"off, not 3/8" ...), what happens to the top part of the "prehung" jamb? Thanks
Is the gap just as wide for the entire side jamb? That is, is it just as wide of a gap near the top, center and bottom of the side jamb? If that is the case, shimming the side jamb may only be effective for an area a foot above the floor to a foot below the top of the door....?
