Hello This has been happening intermittently on our 2007 Toyota Camry 4 Cylinder 4 Door Sedan. If I stop and turn the car off with the key and then turn the car back on then it is fine for a while?? See Yellow arrows in Pic Below - click to Enlarge. At first, I did not see the brake and ABS lights so I put in a new speed sensor. This car has one sensor in the top of the transmission under the air filter box. It is just held in by one bolt. That did not fix it so I called the Toyota Dealer He said to get the VIN number on top of the left side dash board. VIN 4T1BE46K47U620794 Then I saw on the web that if the 5th digit is E or K, in my case E then it means the ABS Control Module has the skid control option and this brand new part to fix the problem is $2100 and takes a few days to get!!! There are 4 E-5 Head star bolts holding the module and a lever that pulls up to disconnect the Ziff connector on the side of the module. On this car the brake lines do not go directly into the black electronic part so replacing this part is just plug and play!! The Auto Parts stores sell the part for between $400 - $600 plus $200 core charge and the rebuilders can repair it for $150 or sell a rebuilt one for $190?? Anyone have this issue? This video seems helpful Pic 1 - Shows dash board problem Tachometer going but speedometer dead and brake light and ABS light both on??? Pic 2 - Driver’s side of engine Pic 3 - ABS modulator Pic 4 - Black ABS modulator Control. See star bolts. Pic 5 - Rebuilt module
Not sure of the process of pulling up trouble codes on the Camry, but that's where I'd start with troubleshooting. On my Caddy I pulled codes because of ABS light and traction control light. I have a left front wheel speed sensor in wheel hub that's bad. One sensor out confuses the computer
Thanks Chaz. I tried the cheaper part first. The one speed sensor in the transmission and that did not fix it. Therefore all the other research I did on the web like the video points to that black ABS control module. So I have one on it’s way.
Very common to have cold solder joints in the board because of the way they are built. Remove box open it up and look at the joints, resolder as necessary, I had to do this on my GMC Safari van. If it does not work you are only out a little time.
Hello New ABS modulator Control came in 2.5 Days from Cali. Had to buy an E-5 Star tool for the 4 bolt replacement. Disconnected the negative battery terminal and did the replacement. Speedometer is working and AbS Light & brake light is off! Now I have to get my $100 core deposit back! The new part came with a prepaid return label! I recommend DAT in Cali See pics Pic 1 - old black ABS control module Pic 2 & 3 - New Black ABS control module Pic 4 - new model bolted in Pic 5 - new module with electrical connector
That's great news! I hate electrical gremlins. Thats why I won't buy Dodge/FCA products. Been there done that.
Thanks It has been a good car but the price of Dealer parts are out rages! I am glad I found the rebuilders in Cali, very nice to work with. I texted Joe a few pics and the VIN number and he made sure they sent out the right part with a prepaid return label for the old core!
That's great service. If you can rate their service, either on their site, or google, or wherever, I'd do that. There's some really bad ones to go with the good ones like you've found.
My guess would be that part of the rebuilding process is that they reflow the solder in the unit. That’s just a guess, as I am not familiar with that specific module. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Glad you got it fixed for a reasonable price. My wife's subaru forester did something similar this past spring. it ended up being the alternator was on it's way out. I called the local salvage yard and got a replacement for about $100. It's been running fine ever since. Scariest electrical problem was with a 2002 GMC Envoy. It had some type of glitch were the throttle would cut out and you couldn't give it any gas. Doing 65 on the highway and having that stupid thing act up was a lot of fun. I had to shift it to neutral, turn the ignition off, restart it then put it back in gear while coasting. Glad we got rid of that vehicle.
We had a 96 Chevy Silverado with the 4.3 that did a similar thing. It would cut all output from the alternator to the point that no headlights, no fan, radio, AC, could be used out of would stall. It barely ran then too. That made for a few interesting drives, one at night, on way to our cousin's house. This was when the vehicle was very new, just with over 40k on it. My dad put a lot of miles on vehicles for work. It was at most 1.5 yrs old, but probably more like a year old. He kept it until 75k. It went through 6 alternators and 2 ecm's, some of that under warranty. That was a POS.
Good job fixing your car. Enjoy those repairs while you can. More and more those modules are becoming vin matched and need to be programmed to work.
Yes, even this one supposidly is matched to the 5th digit in the vin number and I gave that info to the supplier. I think in this case the difference was very little! I was lucky that no brake lines went into the control module like some cars so no brake bleeding was needed either! Just plug and pray! LOL
engineering and designs are likely ok- execution of same leaves a lot to be desired - low man wins bid- stacked tolerances is the glitch
I miss those days of auto repair. Heck even just swapping out a E prom from the ecms was cake compared to what they are doing to them now. I am a Technician for Ford / Lincoln and stuff is just outrageous now. Everything has a programable module now. I have seen as many as 130 programable modules on some vehicles. This screen shot is page one of three of the stuff that I can monitor live to find out what is wrong with a vehicle
