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Using The Husqvarna Crankshaft Installation Tool

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by KilliansRedLeo, Oct 19, 2014.

  1. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    Husqvarna provides several of these tools for different familys of saws, they are all basically the same tool with different threads and sizes for various familys of saw. The First picture (Pic1) shows to components of the tool and how they relate to the crankshaft during use. In pic1 the parts shown left to right are:

    1) Clutch side reverse threaded puller for the clutch side of the crank and puller nut
    2) Mandrel for the clutch side, this tool can be reversed for both sides of the case as it is sized to fit inside the case where the seal will go and rests directly on the bearing already installed in the case.
    3) The crankshaft to be installed
    4) The flywheel side threaded puller.

    The pullers are both internally and externally threaded such that external threads are sized for the puller nut and internal threads are set to match the crankshaft being installed.

    In pic2 the crank has been slipped into the clutch side bearing as far as it will go. Always start with the clutch side of the case. Put the mandrel over the crank such that it seats in the seal recess of the case. Thread the puller onto the crankshaft as far as it will go, then back off a turn. When doing the installation, I put a couple jug bolts into the case, and use a rubber band to keep the rod in the correct position.

    In Pic3 we are ready to pull the crankshaft into the clutch side of the case. Holding the puller stationary using the wrench on the right, turn the wrench on the left clockwise to pull the crank through the bearing, keep in mind that the mandrel is resting right against the inner race of the bearing and as such eliminates side thrust on the bearing while installing the crankshaft.

    Once the crank is in the bearing you can remove the tool. You will need to remove the puller nut and washer from the clutch side puller and install them on the flywheel puller to install the crank into the flywheel side of the case, as well as reverse the mandrel to fit the flywheel side of the case. With the case on the clutch side, install the case gasket, set the flywheel side of the case down over the crankshaft end. Now install the mandrel and puller on the flywheel side of the crank and repeat the process as you did for the clutch side.

    CAUTION:

    Do not go nuts when pulling the case together, exert only enough force on the tool to lightly clamp the case gasket between the case halves. Final clamping is done by bringing the case bolts to 8NM per the factory (about 6 foot pounds).
     

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    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
  2. Aclarke

    Aclarke

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    That's really nice, great way to pull em in
     
  3. Aclarke

    Aclarke

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    Tim, have you read in any of the husky literature about tapping (soft mallet) the crank ends after assembly to relieve and pre load on the main bearings?

    Adam
     
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  4. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    Those would be nice. How much does a set run?
     
  5. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    Adam, the only place in a husky manual I've seen any hint of that is on clamshell saws, never on a pro-built saw. Mike the one I was using in the picture fits almost all the 2xx saws that use the 6202 bearing and are fine threads. Each set runs around $30. Cheap enough compared to making them yourself.
     
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  6. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    That is cheap enough to buy.
     
  7. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    Adam, if you look closely at pic1 you will see that the mandrel is stepped, the entire inner surface rests against the bearing, preventing any pre load of the mains since the bearing is supported across its entire surface and the crank is being drawn through the inner race, instead of the inner race being forced onto the crank. A small difference in concept but very important!
     
  8. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    You got the part number for the one for the 372/385?
     
  9. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    In the attached .pdf along with all the other factory tools.
     

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  10. Aclarke

    Aclarke

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    Really cool. Have to add that one to the saw tool collection
     
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  11. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    I think I have three or four of them. They really work well, are very controllable and quick to use, without any messing about to get the crank/bearings done correctly the first time!
     
  12. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    Next time I need to split a saw I'll get those to put it back together. Be easier than the other ways to do it.
     
  13. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    No chit, Red Rider, said Little Beaver! The 'other ways' lead to less than the factory desires.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
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  14. cutforfun

    cutforfun

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    Used them last night on a 372 rebuild, works great. The seal punches work great for seating the seals perfect also. 1413770453685-2117653032.jpg
     
  15. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    I have a tool from Stihl that works in a similar fashion except that it doubles as a case splitter as well as a crank install tool. Actually it's two tools, one for the flywheel side and the other for the clutch side. They work on many, many of the creamsicles made in the last 30 years or so. That's have saved me a TON of time and frustration in the shop too.

    Great Post Tim!
     
  16. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    The mfgrs spend a lot of time and money developing these tools and methods because they value the results of doing it correctly.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
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  17. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    A heat gun works pretty good. I can usually push the bearings into the case by hand half way. A little push on them and they're there. Those would be easier and worth the price.
     
  18. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    HVA says heat the case to 200°C, freeze the bearings, they drop right into the case, no force necessary. 200°C (394°F) sounds like a lot but it does not harm anything including the paint. The last 8-10mm of seating the bearings is where the galling occurs, so I always heat the case to spec, and I routinely keep all my bearings in the freezer. The tool is not designed to pull the bearings into the case, only to pull the crank into the bearings when they are fully seated in the case.
     
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  19. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    There's nothing wrong with using a little heat but sure does suck when things don't go as planned and you're stuck with a half-assembled bottom end. That's why I moved to the factory service tools for Stihl.
     
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  20. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    I was scared at first to go above 250F. I set the heat gun up facing the case while I get everything else ready. I haven't checked how hot it gets them. I know they are too hot to handle without welding gloves.