I bought and re-built a '05 Yankee PS earlier this fall and have it installed in place of the PP130 we had downstairs. The PP130 was dirty and nasty and I could never get enough air unless it was cranking hot. I'm having a difficult time with too much draft now. The control rod is pushed almost all the way in and the exhaust blower is tied to the room blower, and still find I need to keep that lower as well. It ran "normally" when I was testing it in the garage with no chimney attached with the control rod about halfway out. I also have 18' of 4in chimney which really starts galloping when it warms up. I'm ok fiddling with it, but just trying to get some consistency with the controls so I can make it as simple as possible for the boss. The chimney goes outside to a clean out T and then up 12', so I was thinking maybe a draft control fitted to that T would reduce the draw? Maybe? Thoughts?
It would help, but I dunno if that would be against code - never seen a draft damper control for / setup in a pellet vent system. We had a similar problem here, stove spec'd for 3" vent that goes into a 9x12 chimney, w/ SS flue block plate & vented up to the smoke shelf inside, I wrapped 1/8" fireplace screen up on the chimney cap on top to "temper" the draft pull, which helps when the winds are < less than 40mph. If your pellet vent cap allows for it, adding some screening on or around it may help to temper the draft pull out of that 4" pipe. Hope the feedback helps.
Let me rephrase that... A barometric draft control, not a damper. Field Controls has them for wood stoves, and although not ideal my idea is to put one on the bottom of the T outside so as not to pump smoke, fumes or CO in the house.
Interesting idea - it would work to reduce draft pull from the stove -> and transfer it to the baro: although I'd be wary (cautious) of installing the baro outside: due to wind. They're very sensitive.
Yeah.. My organic computer has not come up with a solution for that yet, or if it would even matter. The outside chimney is in a fairly protected "L" part of the house, and the T is about 3' from ground level. I think I will try removing the cleanout cap and see how it runs first. I have not yet searched, but am wondering if there is a heat activated one? That might be just the ticket. I guess I understand why they make most stoves "simple to operate" but it irritates me to no end. Hopefully I can stumble onto another Enviro sometime and be done with it.
A baro draft control inside house would be dangerous,and illegal.Outside it would be useless. I would like to see vid or pics of too much draft.Personally,i find it hard to believe you are keeping the outside pipe that warm to increase the draft very much,except if it already is hot outside.Have you modified anything else on this stove,besides the OA?
I had an exhaust damper on my cb1200. Made and sold by quad Quadra-Fire & Eco-Choice Pellet Stove 3" Damper (PEL-DAMP3)
I know they don’t recommend using them on 25’ or less but if a person wanted to test to insure that excess draft is truly the problem one could be constructed easily and cheaply you all know I didn’t pay $183.$$ when i have a tig and aluminum driveshafts
looks like about 10-15 dollars worth of parts, using an automotive exhaust pipe adapter fitted to the "T" end-cap / cleanout port.
Barometric dampers are only made for interior use, and quite common with coal stoves and oil furnaces. As mentioned above, winds would mess with the draft and likely make the baro ineffective. Also, the pivot points would likely rust and render the baro inoperative