I just replaced the convection motor and the combustion motors on my 2006 Castille. (Third combustion motor and second convection motor) No problem and stove running good. PROBLEM: Smoke coming out of the right angled clean out joint, at the bottom of my stove pipe, on start up, is telling me I don't have a good seal. (First piece off the stove is the clean out box, at the bottom of my stove pipe stack) I put the high temp silicone on the inside bottom end of the round clean out part that goes INTO the stove and slides over the pipe that is part of the stove. Did it twice and still have smoke. Did I not put enough silicone on (the gap between this connection is probably no more than a 1/4") as I must have had 3/4" on the last shot? Or, am I putting the silicone in the wrong place? If I put it on the end of the pipe part that is part of the stove itself, and slide the clean out connection over it, I assume I am going to spread the silicone over a wide surface and never get a seal, correct? As I have a tight 90 degree bend at the top of the three foot stove pipe, before it goes straight back into the chimney, I have to insert and slightly twist the bottom of the pipe with the clean out upward (can't put the bottom of the pipe straight into the stove) to line it up with the 90 degree bend on the top. Pics of the set up below. Can't run the stove until I have no smoke...
I use silicone tape instead of a spreadable. If you don't get it on correctly the first time, it is easy to remove and try again (or use a fresh piece). I've never met a clean out or curve pipe that didn't leak (doesn't' mean they don't exist - just haven't been in my hands), so I wrap silicone tape all over those too.
if you realty suspected a leak from improper sealing, you would not be here. You seem to describe a failure of an exhaust pipe, or connecting devise, in your case the 90 degree adapter.
I use this stuff. Probably the same stuff BHags is talking about. Works great. Makes a really nice, night seal. Doesn’t burn up. I bought it at Ace.
That is the point, the silicone did not seal properly in the clean out connection to the stove. Since running the stove for a few days intermittently, the seal in that joint seems to have expanded and contracted enough to make a good seal. The stove pipe above that joint will be reviewed in the spring and as it is 15 years old and not a great expense, replacement is on the table.
We painted the pipe years ago to match the stove, so your eyes deceive you. Once spring shut down arrives, will consider replacing the 15 year old pipe as the expense would be minimal.
If the pipe is DuraVent, they use a Rope Gasket in the slip joint to seal the sections of pipe.. Using an automotive pick tool to pull up the gasket closer to the opening allows the gasket to compress -> reseal properly. ... (Pipe sections are 5-6 yrs. old here.) However, if the rope gasket is old -> is compressed beyond any reseal ability: it will need to be replaced. (Been there, done that here. On the elbow section.) We also use the aluminum tape here: on the stove adapter, and elbow sections, works well. Ours is due for another "refresh" at the end of this season, been reapplying every other year (every 2 yrs.). Have also used the silicone tape, worked well: lasted one season. .. Only because we have no "T" installed, and have to disassemble from the adapter -> to the flue plate collar, every time to ( 1 ton or deep ) clean the venting. But I think that's a good idea Augmister - after 15 yrs. of use, that venting has served you well.