Aw yes. Just found a Stihl 034 Super AV EQ on FB MP. No chain, bar, or dogs. Doesn't start. Cleaned out the carb it was pretty dirty. The choke lever was bent and was not closing the flap enough so I bent it back into shape. Also noticed there was a broken vent cap as it spilled fuel when I had the saw sideways. Good compression, correct spark plug but I'll order a new one. It's a Sunday so I can't try and start it. I'll try tomorrow. 3/8" - 7 sprocket drive on it. Chain brake works. Too bad my 028 WB AV uses a .325" chain. I do have an extra 18" bar but I might be tempted to use a 20" on this. I might sell it, I might not. 61.5cc that would be a nice saw to have as it's a big jump from the 47cc in the 028. Fuel filter looks good as does the fuel line. No water in the fuel that was in the tank either. Spark arrestor looks ok but I haven't take it out yet.
You can see the chain guard took a hit. Will probably replace that too if it starts along with the air filter. The felt was pretty much gone on the filter.
I’d replace the protector plate too. It looks like it caught a chain or two. Overall looks to be in good shape. At least it still has a chain catch and hasn’t been sheared away. Being able to breathe has to help. Google luck
I will order a bunch o' oem parts off of eBay once I hopefully get it running tomorrow. Chain catch Protector plate 4-pack of screws (one of the pull rope cover screws was missing) Fuel tank vent (ordered 1 extra) Air filter Bumper spikes/dawgs
Anyone have recommendations on bars? I figured I'd just get the Stihl rollamatic E (green) 20" bar. 3/8" pitch, .050" gauge, 72 dl rapid super chain. I saw a video and Stihl makes a light bar that's over a pound lighter as is the Oregon Powercut. Any experience on those bars is appreciated. At 20" maybe the weight difference is not so drastic but I wouldn't mind lighter!
I have no experience with this model saw, but I'd think going with a 20" bar, and a light one at that, might make the saw a little unbalanced? Light in the nose...just the opposite of what a 48" on a MS660 does...dunno...just a thought...
Woo hoo I had to pull quite a few times because everything was cleaned up.....but I got it to start and stay running. The main culprit was a bent lever for the choke switch. It was not bent far enough and thus the flap on the carb was still wide open causing it to not choke. Now I can order the parts. Regarding the bar for $50 I'm just going to use the regular Stihl bar. Not worth it spending 3 times the money. I may end up selling this saw but I kind of want to keep it now.
Thats awesome. Wish i had the patience to fix them. I was going to suggest not buying new bar or a lightweight one. Yes the lighter bar is nice but unless you are running it for many hours i cant justify spending the extra money. The different chain sizes can get to be a PITA but it is what it is. My 036 Pro has the same specs. My most recent saw purchase in April and i like it a lot. A 20" bar is perfect for that saw. Contact a few OPE dealers as they may have a used bar hanging around. Best of luck with it and keep us updated. I noticed it has a red lever. I dunno if that is significant with this particular model. Supposed to mean early production run and worth more??? My 026 (i bought it new in 1992 and it was recently brought back to life after sitting over ten years) has one and ive seen them bring a premium.
034 in proper working order is on good firewood saw. Just picked up another needing minor work myself.
My tree guy said he might have a 3/8" 18" bar and chain for me. He has a lot of saws and lots of spare parts. Might also have a new sprocket too since mine was showing a little bit of wear on the grooves. How much did you pay for the 036 and how much work did you need to do to it? If my tree guy doesn't have it, yeah I think I'll just go with a regular stihl 20" bar. I was already loving my resuscitated 028! I feel like I got a nice collection - small, medium, and large!
Well when I ran it this morning I did notice it wasn't pushing any oil out.....and when I opened up the cover it looked like a hot mess in there. Tell tale sign I guess of a leaking oil hose because there was just gunk everywhere as you can see in the pic. Lo and behold the hose was ripped right where it inserts into the body of the saw. I sprayed some brake cleaner and saw it squirt out where it wasn't suppose to.....so I've got the kit on order and also ordered the rubber piston stop tool as well.
Common issue on the 1125 saws. Sometimes the clutch drum itself cuts into the line/pump. The needle bearing can fail and cause the wobble. Other times it’s just age/heat (especially when non-OEM hose is used). There’s quite a procedure for installing the hose. Heat is your friend…you’ll get enough hose for two tries. I think it’s 74mm (102mm for the impulse line?) but that’s from memory. ETA- the above measurements are correct.
I actually use a Stihl fuel line with a 1/8” spring pushed into it. I also use the brass ferrule (OEM). I don’t necessarily recommend it but it works for me. I build up two or three of this series every year and fix others. I don’t care for the OEM stiff line and need to use that time for other issues. Check- Crank wiggle Needle bearing Seals (both sides) Impulse line Lower dawg/spike hole (needs a timesert about 60% of the time for used saws) Piston for scoring and excessive wear. The air filters with flocking missing are a killer for these saws. They ingest a lot of junk and often take out the crank bearings (plastic cages). That oem green spark plug wire sometimes crumbles to nothing. The master control spring can be annoying. I replace most of ‘em that end up on my bench.
