By way of introduction, we bought our house 3 years ago. When the opportunity to bring wood in presented mid summer 2019, we went for.it. while apartment living, we cut and split and hauled for those around us in tighter.financial or physical conditions. Now, with a saw and 27 ton, (rec'd as payment for a job), we were ready. From august to january ish, dear wife and dear son did odd tree jobs, for little to no charge, and brought in 15 cord, not including some delivered out to those in need. But we had a blast...the teenager went and bought his own maul and loves splitting by hand. We sharpen our tools by hand as a father/son activity. We grabbed wood this year, some lite jobs, some storm clean up Here in NE CT. I am truly a firewood hoarder...the site name is so us! We scored a used Jotul F500 4 weeks ago, and have chimney folks coming to do some light mortaring, and drop my (double wall insulated) liner down through. We scored a 20g piece of sheet steel today, to be our hearth. My question is about the hearth: the (galvy) sheet steel almost doesnt need to be tacked down. But I would like a way to transition the edges. I also.have high temp paint, but am wondering if its worth painting? Either way, love the site, been lurking here for several weeks, and cant stay away! Best, Sca
Welcome to the club, lots of great folks here sharing knowledge and humor. What do you want the edges to look like? I don't think it's very thick, might could do a small trim around it. As far as paint, don't know how good it will stick to the galvanized, it would have to be cleaned really good. Any scratches will show thru easily though.
Indeed it is good to be here! Thank you! If there were a good tape, I could see taping the seam....it's not that tall, just want to keep socks from catching. Even a bead of caulk would tool out nicely. DW washed the metal in anticipation of paint, but i kinda like the bare metal look. As much as we'd possibly scratch the paint, it could be easily touched up I reckon. Ive never heated my own place with wood, but grew up with a Nashua. Quite the learn I have in front of me!
I also used durock on our combustible walls....kinda short on wood burning folks around here....so cutting my own path. Either way, durock is up, and I'm thinking about painting it. Stove and or high heat paint comes to mind. Unless there are alternative finishes. Black would absorb heat to the small amount of thermal mass there...
Are you meeting the clearance to combustibles requirement for that stove? Putting a non combustible in direct contact (no air gap) with a combustible offers almost no reduction in clearance required...unless it is an approved high R value product. The easiest way to reduce clearances is to put up a sheet metal shield spaced 1" off the wall with non combustible spacers, and 1" up off the floor to allow for air flow behind the shield...this will often buy you a 50% reduction in clearances required (to a point...there is always still a bare minimum)
I have a few clearance questions I cannot find answers to. No, no steel on the wall yet...have a source, shouldnt be too difficult to install. But I have wood on each side of the chimney, to the right and the left, but flush behind the face where the stove pipe will enter. And less than 6" from the side of the pipe. Got 2 layers of durock on that, and fire caulk to seal gaps. Really have no idea if inspector will make me remove the wall/door, other wood work that is left and right of the chimney. Am hoping to burn this year, but if I have to rip out stuff, we might just throw in the towel for the year.
So when the stove mfr says x" from a combustable surface, does that mean fromnthe sheet metal protecting it, or the wood an inch and change behind the sheet steel....? The steel ended up being 1.75" off the wall...was a fun install as I don't do too much metal working.
For those looking for an option to mounting sheet metal to a wall: galvanized 9" straps (electrocal section lowes) bent around 1" steel pipe, and #6 machine screws and nuts to hold it together. Use a few of the same straps bent to 90* and bolted to the bottom to hold it 1" off the floor.
