Countyline line 25 ton log splitter, only 3 years old, used really only one season. Kohler 6.5hp, model SH265 engine. I cranked it every so often and again about six months ago and it cranked and then died. Haven't been able to crank it since. Now I got plug out and don't see a spark laying it on the cylinder. Hopefully, I am touching good metal! I bought a spark plug from the local feed store. To give me the right one, he, literally, eyeballed the two of them side by side to choose a Champion that appears to be same size. They are close but not absolutely identical. Hmmm... I wonder if this is 'close enough,' lol. So, I put the new one on the wire, no spark. I thought, well, maybe I am just not seeing a spark (bright sunlight)... but it won't start. Now what. I guess coil could have gone bad? What else? I thought also maybe a squirrel chewed a wire but the machine just died suddenly last time it ran. Rather than just replace the coil, is there something else I should do first? This machine doesn't have many hours at all and always ran like a top. I always used ethanol-free gas. I also put some Seafoam in it before I deduced I had no spark. It pulls normally with the pullcord. Oil level is normal. EDIT: Confused about this spark plug. Removed one is Kohler 14 132 03. The Champion he gave me after just eyeballing them side by side is Champion RC12YC. I keep finding info about Resistor type spark plugs and those that are not and one reference said an "R" in the part number indicated resistor-type plug. So, wondering if this is the correct replacement plug. All of this "resistor" stuff is new to me and I don't know if it matters.
What model...splitter and engine? Does it have a low oil safety switch? If so it might be a tad low on oil, or not level enough...or switch went bad? You can unplug those to test, I can't remember if the wires get left unplugged, or if you plug them into each other bypassing the switch. Could try both ways, won't hurt anything, just wont work if its wrong. What does the shutoff switch look like? As long as it is working properly, and there is no short to ground on that wire, the coil is probably bad...the coil is the whole ignition system on many/most small motors...
Agree with your suspicions. Low oil safety switch. Very common problem. Many YouTube vids about this.
Do you have an on/off switch, is it on before starting? STARTING INSTRUCTIONS Refer to the Kohler Owner’s manual for complete information on starting, maintenance and specifications. 196cc Kohler Engine a) Check that “ON”/“OFF” switch is in the on position. b) Move the throttle lever to “FAST”. Always operate the engine with throttle lever in the “FAST” position. c) Move choke control lever to “CHOKE” position. d) Grasp rope handle and pull slowly until resistance is felt. Then pull rapidly to start engine and avoid engine kickback. e) Allow the engine to warm up. If operating in warm weather, move the choke control lever toward “RUN” a short distance at a time over several seconds. For cold weather operation do this procedure over several minutes. Operate with choke lever in the “RUN” position. f) To stop engine, move “ON”/“OFF” switch to “OFF”. Look on page 17, hope it helps. https://www.tractorsupply.com/static/sites/TSC/downloads/ProdContentPDFs/1261517_Man1.pdf
Yes, I had the on/off switch set to 'on.' It really wouldn't hold any more oil, I added a little and it overflowed, so, it's full. I tried to get a little out. The dipstick cap did fit normally back in. Still no start.
Starting to sound more and more like the coil has failed. Not sure if that one is under the flywheel or not? If not is should be easy to change...and usually not terribly expensive. If you take the covers off to change the coil, one last test you could do before taking the coil off is to unplug the on/off (ground) wire from it, then pull it over to check the spark. If you have spark then there is a wiring issue, if not then the coil has taken its leave of absence. To answer your earlier question about resistor plugs...yes, an R in the part # means resistor, and no it really doesn't matter much. A resistor plug will fire a bit hotter, but any engine should run fine on a non resistor...now, the real issue with them is radio/tv/electronics interference...if you are splitting wood near the house and someone is inside trying to use a radio or TV, your little non resistor plug log splitter will likely drive them crazy...especially if they listen to AM radio! (unless it has a resistor spark plug cap, like many motorcycles do, then it may be OK with a non-resistor plug...but many OPE small engines do not have resistor caps)
Looks like a coil assembly runs about $40-$50 depending on where you get it and the exact part # coil that your engine uses. And yeah, looks to me like that RC12YC replacement plug they gave you should work fine...that is a pretty common small engine plug. I personally am not a fan of Champion plugs though...fixed plenty of problems over the years by installing Champion plugs in the trash can, and then putting new NGK plugs in the engine. What you describe probably is not a plug issue though...very unlikely that the old plug died and the new one is junk right out of the box too. (although it is possible...BTDT)
