I'm planning a late summer install of a free standing stove, and I have been watching videos and reading up on stove pipe. I should have plenty of clearance from the back of the stove and pipe to the wall. I've read posts about some members having double wall pipe from the stove to the Class A. I'm just trying to determine what would be best. The pipe will go straight up 6' from the stove to the Class A at the ceiling box. Up through the attic crawlspace and through the roof. Maybe somewhere around 15 feet total. So why are some of you using double wall off the stove? Is it for cat stoves or helping with the draft? Just curious, but want to make the best decision.
Closer clearances to combustibles, mainly. There is probably some draft enhancements as well, but we didn’t use it for that reason.
DW stays cleaner too...the internal temp stays higher. As they say, heat with the stove, not the stovepipe. Also, the DW that I am familiar with is stainless steel inside, so it will last a lot longer than single wall steel...
I used double wall telescoping pipe from the stove to ceiling for clearance reasons, ease of use and hopefully a much longer lifespan than single wall. I was under the impression single wall is cheaper but more prone to failure and double wall was more of a (but not certainly) a "one and done" type of deal.
^ This has me thinking now that I could get a rear heat shield and move the set up back towards the wall a bit for some extra space, keeping in mind to keep the hearth big enough for the next size up stove. We will be just above minimal height requirements for draft, extra flue temp may not be a bad thing.
Just follow the data plate on the stove, if it's old and doesn't have one, then the 3ft rule is in place. Single wall stove pipe needs 18" A heat shield either on the wall or on the pipe reduces the clearance by 66%, that may buy you enough.
I brought the Castine with us. I'm looking forward to seeing how it operates as a freestander. Probably installing an OAK to reduce drafts. I have a good location to run one outside. Also, putting the regular legs back on it. I had the short legs for fireplace install at the last place.
Jon, I've never ran double wall so have no personal experience with it. However I'd have no problem installing it and don't think you would either. And I agree with the old saying about heating your house with the stove and not the stove pipe. Also, I doubt it would help the draft much in your case but still would not do any harm.
Only thing to add on many cat stoves you want the pipe a foot up to be 500 double wall requires a probe not a magnet thermometer..
This is what I use. It flat out works. Another reason to go this route is to have the option of lifting up the lower section for a bottom up cleaning with a Sooteater whenever you desire. Nice to be able to keep a eye on things. I believe you will find the price appealing as well! https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...8-black-stove-pipe/dsp6tl/p-1444453726558.htm I get the rest of my components at the same place. It all works together nicely.
Great link moresnow. I went on Selkirk''s page a few days ago to get ideas. I don't have measurements yet of what I am working with, but I did get familiar with their different types of pipe. The Jotul is easy to use a Soot Eater from the bottom up. I just have to take the baffle out and straight up shot it goes.
Which comes in handy if you've a stove that can burn low and slow. It's nice to have a chimney that can support it.
