So, I got my OAK put in a while back and it worked well until the outside temps got colder. I was concerned with condensation in/on the pipe, and wasn't surprised when it happened. However, there's so much condensate, I unhooked it and shoved some insulation in the OAK pipe. I could wrap it in insulation, but would need to stop before getting too close to the stove.......the covering will melt. How do those of you with an OAK deal with this?
Does your OAK follow the floor and then come up to the back of the stove? Would changing the OAK material to something non combustible as it gets closer to the stove work? Aluminum would work , steel, hi temp PVC...
Besides for some rust at the inlet of the stove, I haven't had any issues. The oak only runs around 2' from the outside of the house running parallel to the stove. I used ss ducting too. I think it doesn't condensate because of the short run. By the time cold air comes through it, it warms/dries from the radiant stove. How long is your oak?
It's flex aluminum connected to the aluminum dryer vent pipe coming through the wall. Maybe 3' or a bit more, not including the pipe through the wall. I've since foamed some around the pipe, but the flex is still condensing. Even if I insulated and sealed up the wall, the flex will probably still sweat. As long as it doesn't get in the wall, it's less of a problem but the drips were noticeable.
Your not much longer than me.....hmmm..... I have some rust there, but I haven't noticed any drips. Insulating it would be best if it's a concern while keeping clearances. Here's my mess.....
Papadave, What is the humidity in your stove room? I have two stoves, the one upstairs has no problem with humidity and condensation. The downstairs stove, on a cement slab, does have condensation and, if I don,t keep after it, rust problems. The water & gas pipes in that room will also sweat & drip. Until the stove dries out the downstairs room each fall I have to run a dehumidifier. KaptJaq
Simple solution- from intake 90deg vertical for at least a foot more would be better than a 180 back down to stove. That should alleviate the problem. I have a horz. S shaped on mine external the 10 ft line that runs fairly horz. through basement ceiling. Never had a condensation problem also stops 98% of weird wind problems that can occur such as a negative pressure at the intake due to high wind shear.
In the image below the arrows are the wind direction, "+" is higher pressure, "-" is lower pressure. The lower pressure can suck the smoke out via the OAK when the wind hits the opposite side of the house. Depending on the stove sometimes hot embers can also be pulled out via the OAK. KaptJaq
I get some sweating, but use a small pan to catch it on the pellet furnace. The wood stove has just as long of a run, but since I painted the pipe black? I do not have any sweating. . At all. Maybe the black pipe warms it quicker? I am not sure, but I plan on painting the flue and OAK of my Pellet furnace black this year to eliminate it.
Thanks! I now have intelligent words to describe problems with both the pellet and wood stove in high winds.
I'm thinking the black pipe collects more heat? Or it could be that it's near the wood stove and their is more radiant heat? But then no one would have issues with a wood stove OAK? The black paint is all I got..?..? I will be painting the OAK on my Pellet furnace as well. Just to settle the myth in my head.
Before I put the Oak in, I had thought of painting it black to hide it somewhat. It's been temped in since. Might be time, eh? I just need to make the time.
I am the same way on my pellet stove. I have seen ice a handful of times on my oak, but most of the time it is just condensate on really cold nights! I do the same thing just put a pan under it to catch the drips.
