Our pressure switch and tank on our well-based plumbing is currently at 30-50, factory settings, and the pressure tank is at 28 psi. Figured out how to increase the switch to 40-60, seems straightforward. So, I'll also need to adjust the tank to 38psi. Also straightforward, if a little more labor intensive, draining the tank, hooking up the compressor, and getting it to pressure. My question: Does it matter what order I do these two steps? Can I make the pressure adjustment on the switch, then drain the tank, add air? Or should I make the tank adjustment, then increase the switch? I'm thinking it doesn't matter, but wanted to check with the experts first. As an aside, I replaced the tank about 4 months ago when it started to leak out the bottom. The new tank came pre-charged with 28 psi, which matched the old one, and the pressure switch required no adjustment.
I assume you put in a new switch and pressure gauge when you replaced the tank. Mine get clogged and need replaced in 2 to 3 years. It doesn't matter which you do first. I would hold the switch closed and make sure your pump will deliver 60psi before making changes. Also running your system at higher pressure will shorten pump life. Do you really need to increase pressure?
The switch and gauge were replaced a couple of years ago by the well pros. They were totally clogged, as you described,with a combination of corrosion and grit from the well. They used stainless nipples, so I'm not expecting corrosion this time, but perhaps grit. This may be the issue. I replaced the pressure tank myself, more recently. I did not replace the switch or gauge. Changing the pressure seemed like an easier fix, but perhaps I need to get the pros out again, and pay close attention to the steps to replace the switch and gauge, so I can do it myself for the cost of parts. I also really need to install a sediment filter on the well line to keep those little black particles from clogging everything up.
Filters need to be after the switch. You don't want a clogged filter preventing pressure getting to switch. The gauge and switch screws off with pump pliers. Turn off braker and remove the wires. Install the new gauge and switch the opposite way you took it apart. Take a picture of the wiring before you start. Use teflon tape on the threads. The 3 things you need to know to be a plumber. 1. Poop flows downhill. 2. Payday is on Friday. 3. Don't chew your fingernails!
I like your reasoning, and you are right, although I do have much respect for the tradesmen who do the dirty work that most of us don't want to do. Plus, I'm no good with the solder. I'm just starting to get comfortable over at the plumbing supply house with the recent replacement of the water heater under warranty, and it's close. A couple of pictures, and they'd grab the parts I need. I think I'll start by taking it apart and see what's going on. Good tips.
I hooked up the hose to the drain valve, opened it up and checked the cycle. Switched on right at 30. Went for about 110 seconds, past 50, and finally stopped at a little short of 60. Seemed like it was trying to stop at 50, but didn't. Seems like I might have to play with the differential switch, the smaller of the two adjustments, because it is definitely not at 20 lb difference. Any thoughts?
20 psi will run a house. I have a 30/50 switch on mine now and when it needs to be replaced I will go with a 20/40 for the pump life. I work in the plumbing dept @ Menards and I sell a lot of pumps because folks messing with the switches to get more pressure, if a shower is weak you will get better performance by going to a larger supply pipe than you will be more pressure, more so with pex than any other type' Pex is the same OD as copper but because of the wall thickness it is much smaller ID (where it really matters) 1/2" pex is close the the same ID as 3/8" copper, 3/4" is 1/2" copper and 1" is 3/4" copper. I try to get people to think volume over pressure.
I'm sure I'm not telling you anything new, but just so others understand, when plumbing with pex, it has a whole lot less "hard 90*" elbows to overcome...the effect is that you can get almost the same flow with a smaller ID...over sizing on the cold side is fine, but on the hot side means waiting longer to get hot water...
Moen shower valves say in the instructions that if using Pex that it has to be 3/4" supplys. Also from the valve to the spigots that it needs 3/4" If you are using the corner bend supports (most don't they use elbows) I agree that there is less restriction, but C/B pex fittings are tiny, A pex or Upinor, expansion pex is a larger ID in the fittings, but still not as large as copper.
If the pump is centrifugal like a submersible or jet raising the pressure won't shorten it's life. Unless the pump is in a deadhead situation where no water is flowing because then it will overheat due to churning. FLA is highest at maximum flow lowest pressure and drops on its way up. The reduction in start/stop cycles will actually increase the life of the pump.
Nope. A lot of factors take a toll on a motor. If a motor is rated continuous duty it will be happier doing so. Expansion and contraction of the windings leads to shorts. The magnetic reaction of the windings in the stator leads to shorts. Ball bearings skate on startup and bushings in submersibles are touching before being floated. Then you have the in rush current that is a multiple of the full load amps. If you have to drive your car 100 miles away and you get lost and drive 150 miles it's still easier on your car than if you drove 100 miles 10 miles at a time. It's also becoming more common to put the pumps on variable frequency drives and use a transducer to hold the pressure constant and on those they just vary the speed and the pump is never shut off.
Yup, start/stop on most things electrical (especially motors) is a bad deal...they will generally last much longer running 24/7 than start/stop all day long...we have pumps at work that run 24/7 for weeks and weeks at a time without stopping...on VFD though too...have converted quite a few pumps over to VFD from the old on/off type level control...much less problems now.
After a bunch of troubleshooting, I'm replumbing with a new stainless manifold. I believe the old setup was not right to begin with, and corrosion and scale buildup was creating problems, including the pressure issue. I also ordered some viagra to drop down the well. For both higher pressure and longer pump life.
