P68 Dip switches

Looking to remedy the overloading of pellets in my p68 each time it starts back up from a complete shutdown.
Did a few searches found some information and will attempt it soon as it should not be to difficult.

Anyone else have any experience doing so ? It appears the dip switches are located on the back of the control panel which has 2 screws to the right self tappers and it seems that Harman drove them a bit to far and stripped them but no biggie its functional and can be remedied easy enough and the left side has a return leg without any screws. Releasing the screws there are a few connectors connected (red wire, and what appears to be 12 pin power connector similar to a motherboard) that will have to disconnected to get the control board out. (Maybe something else did not get a good look as I did not have much time just wanted to have a peek)

The information I found was dated a bit and having bought my stove in 2016 I want to make sure the settings are correct, not sure how to confirm this but appears that switches 1-3 are all on off in the default . Question is what is the switch settings for this stove to lesson the amount of pellets loaded at startup as I want to try to do it in steps testing it each time. Currently regardless of the condition of the stove clean ,semi clean, super clean or dirty upon loading after a complete shut down which is common with the warmer weather here it loads way to many pellets resulting in a lazy tall fire that buggers up the glass and firebox.
Ill do some more research before I do it but just looking to see if anyone has any more current information on the switch settings for a newer P68

Have to check auger and Esp on my stove but these settings shown below the default first and the others are plus or minus from the default where its at now if it is in fact at default ? Will load -21 /-43/-64 seconds shorter than the default load . Am i reading this right.

Off off off - program default
Off off on - program -21 sec.
Off on off - program -43 sec.
Off on on - program -64 sec.
On off off - program +21 sec.
On off on - program +43 sec.
On on off - program +64 sec.
On on on - program +85 sec.


Thanks

 

Yup....I have a little experience setting these things....

My suggestion would be to make sure the information you are using is relevant to the revision of control board you have. Its folly to quote settings without knowing exactly which board is in your unit.....there should be a little tag with harman's part number on it.....white tag, on the board itself (there are at least 5 different revisions of boards in the P68)

 

Ok wise advice and I know I am at my own risk Been building computers for over 27 years hopefully some of that experience will help me. I just want to continue using the wonderful feature of this awesome stove now that winter is winding down and the stove will shut down and restart on its own. Shutting her down now and going to give it a go, worse case scenario I will have to shut her down again and adjust which is not bad when its at 40* . Now is as good of time as any .
Thank you very much LW .

 

Ok did it and set it back to default as it was on +64! no wonder it was loading like a mofo, might actually set it back another notch after I see how it runs I think it still loaded way more than it needed to but did not bugger up the glass and firebox ! yes put a small w in the column.

Bad thing Harman did for the DIY'ers was they mounted the board (circuit board, motherboard not sure what you would call it) with pressure friction mounts that are made of metal, looks like pot metal as opposed to plastic which were used for a while to mount coolers to pc motherboards(can't remember if it was AMD or Intel) and I hated them actually. I imagine they did this for a tight durable connection to the face plate on the control panel.
Great thing they did was the sticker that covers the control panel just covers the first four dip switches as the metal is notched out at the dip switches and all I had to do was trim back the sticker to access the first three dip switches that I needed to adjust . Brilliant move to allow techs to adjust without having to separate the circuit board from the metal control panel itself.
This means all you have to do is restart the stove after a shutdown and adjusting the switches . Brilliant move.
Stove is cranking to bring the temp back up to setting will see how it works and if I have successfully adjusted it if not back to the drawing board but at least I don't have to separate the circuit board from the metal control panel.
Have tonight to test it out and hopefully I will get it tweaked before heading off to work tomorrow and don't have to worry about it overloading pellets at each shutdown restart cycle .

 

Luney, how did it get set to +64? Did it come like that brand new or was it tinkered with previously?

 

Came like that TT not sure why seems kinda weird that it would come like that instead of default . Have not tinkered with it before today but according to the settings it was set to +64 unless I have the wrong settings. If anyone messed with it they would have had to separate the board from the panel which looks to be a PIA and there were no markings indicating that it was tinkered with .

Speaking of dip switches some of you old tech heads might remember this was one of the first computers i built was a AMD slot A rig that I purchased what was called Goldfinger which allowed you to adjust the front side bus and also the voltage which was not available via bios then. This was the processor that put AMD on the map and crushed Intel's slot A processor . Can't completely remember but I think I had a 600 that I overclocked to 900 mhz and then got an 850 that I OC'D to 1 gig before AMD released the 1 gig version of this processor .
I cracked the cover added serious fans and added the Goldfinger and was off to the races, I remember it was a blast tweaking and over clocking these things and smacking intel fanboys.
Ah the good old days !

 

Shut her down all the way to test once again and Perfection ! Success !
damm I love this stove ! Fired back up and no residue whatsoever and firing back up like a mofo to get the temp back up to where its set.
Harmans Rock !

Time for some celebratory Fine Bourbon got some 10 year old Russel in the tumbler and it taste pretty darn good, thank again LW.

 

Ya buddy!

 

yup....default is usually best......as long as you know what default actually is. If it came in the factory carton and was bolted to a skid when you got it, it came set incorrectly from the factory...Ive actually never seen that before. Its something we routinely check though with a DDM when we do an install. Could be someone messed with it before you got the unit, or a tech incorrectly set your unit upon installation. Good call in catching the incorrect setting though.

 

Kinda weird LW as I installed it myself and it came completely boxed as if it were from the manufacturer. Did not seem to to be tampered with in any way but regardless its running as designed and no more buggering up the glass or firebox. I am a happy camper .

 

Hello
One more item to check.
The DIP switch settings also vary with the auger motor. Some p68s have a 4 RPM and some have a 6 RPM so use the DIP settings that go with the motor you have installed.

Now maybe a good time to get that nice new REV F Circuit Board That Finally has the 2 blink status error for a vacuum issue to make it easier to troubleshoot!!!
Then set the DIPs per the new sheet that comes with the new board.

That will certainly fix your issue.

 

there haven't been any 4 rpm P68's in years....would be a pretty old P68 that had one....now they are 6 rpm

 

the only dipswitch setting difference is the charge time for ignition...otherwise, the 6 rpm and 4 rpm are the same.....same setting on the E and F revision as well.

 

I say leave well enough alone. Luney fixed the overfeeding issue and is quite happy with how it’s working now.

 

Sorry Don missed this post I bought this stove last year brandy new so should be good to go, seems for some weird reason the dip's were not set to default but since I have changed it all is well.

 

Your Correct TT could not be happier especially with well sooner or later the heating season closing out and I will be running it in room temp mode while I am at work.

Thanks All

 

Hello...If it came in the factory carton and was bolted to a skid when you got it, it came set incorrectly from the factory...Ive actually never seen that before. Its something we routinely check though with a DDM when we do an install.

 

Its VERY rare, but Ive seen it as well...….and yes, a diligent tech will check those settings when he/she also checks draft....just one of the things they should be doing