Out with the gas logs in with the Fisher insert.

I’m still heating with my gas logs until I burn all of the LPG I bought last season. I’ve gotten my fisher insert, flue liner, boot adapter and everything I need to change over to wood. I’ll hang on to the Buck ventless gas logs because when I’m too old to cut wood I may have to go back to using them.

I am pondering if I need to completely remove the gas line from the lower corner of the fireplace or can plug it off and leave it for future use.

Do you all think that the temps at the bottom of the fireplace will be hot enough to damage the copper line and fittings.

Of course I will disconnect the line at the tank and purge all gas from the line before installing the insert and building a fire.

Thanks to all of you fellow hoarders and as always you are welcome to sit by my fire anytime


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Handshake Welderdave.
I can stub it out in the lower back corner if need be. I haven’t removed the logs yet but it is either a flared or Ferrell fitting. Either way I have a flairing tool.
I just don’t have the knowledge you do so once again thank you for sharing it with me.


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PS. Thank you for your service


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Just be sure that the firebox and flue of the existing fireplace is really meant for wood burning. I see you mentioned you have a flue, so maybe it is. In some modern gas fireplaces, the flue isn't much more than just a fume outlet, even though it looks like it's something better.

I have an old(100yrs) gas fireplace that only has a 4" clay flue on it, and it's the main fireplace in the living room of my house. Brick stack goes the proper distance above the roof too. Nice decoration, but I would never use it for wood burning. I have an 8" single wall flue on the other side of the room going into 8" triple wall that I use for the wood stove. Both were there when I bought the house 40 years ago, although I have recently replaced single wall pipe(as I have done every 10 years or so). The triplewall is still in good shape according to my chimney sweep.

 

It is a functional chimney with a 13x13” flue liner. It has a hearth and above the fireplace there is a damper that I will have to remove and cut out the throat to make room for the insulated liner. Propane down to 20% so it won’t be long


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After giving the damper rod problem a lot of thought I decided to get this boot adapter to attach my Fisher insert to the 8” flue liner.
I also had it sandblasted and I gave it a good coat of Stove Brite

Then last week I moved it outside and built a series of fires to cure the paint outside because of the off gassing of the fumes while curing



As the paint cured I started measuring and cutting the steel for the stove to adapter to sit on. I also notched the metal using a 1/2” drill bit in my drill press.
No laughing at my chicken daubbing attempts at welding.
I fabricated a way to raise the insert adapter using thick square tubing. I was able to notch out a 1/2” area for the damper rod. Yesterday I drilled and threaded for 4 1/4x20 bolts into the tubing. I also drilled four holes one in each corner and I plan on marking the top of the stove and taping 4 more 1/4x20 holes to attach the whole thing to the top of the stove. I plan on using a gasket and some mil-pak black to make a great seal.

So any thoughts or improvements to the design. Tell me what you think.

I hope Welder Dave and Coaly chime in.

By the way, the ole LP tank has been on empty since last Monday. I still have to remove the gas logs and install the chimney liner.

Merry Christmas to all my fellow horders. You all are welcome to sit by my fire anytime.


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Welder Dave

I did tap the boot adapter to the metal It came with 8/32” bolts so I thought 1/4” would be enough to hold it. Just for insurance I used furnace cement as well.

I was thinking about keeping the stove original. That is why I planned on bolting the whole thin to the stove using fiberglass gaskets and mil- pac adhesive.

If I welded the flange to the stove wouldn’t I need to make the bead go all the way around the adapter to make it airtight.

Great morning and have a great day.

 

Thanks Welder Dave. That’s a better option. You guys have skills.


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WeldrDave I’m having sporadic problems viewing pictures. I can’t open yours in this post. It’s hit and miss with other posts as well. Just letting you know.


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You were advising to put a bead of this under the flange I fabricated. Your pics didn’t download. Sent a report to Tapatalk. This has been a ongoing problem for that site for years and I haven’t heard back from them on any fix.

 

Went to the internet link and your pictures were there.

I’m using mill-pac black. It’s what Osborne stoves recommends. It’s rated to 1050 degrees Fahrenheit.






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Also have fiberglass gasket material impregnated with graphite. It’s 1/2” wide. I was considering laying down the fiberglass 2 strips wide. Apply a good bead of the mil-pac then bolting everything on top of that. Is that overkill


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Just a thought or potential alternative for gasketing material. Easy to work with and/or cut etc.
Interam Gasket for Catalytic Combustors (2" Wide x 1/16" Thick) – Midwest Hearth

This stuff takes the heat of a Cat combuster in direct contact rather well. 500f - 1500f.
I've never had much luck long term with any squeeze tube sealant near a stove collar. Nuked.

Food for thought.

Edit. How about door/glass gasket? Good luck.