Hello All. I recently posted a thread as a new member in the epa stove section. Bought a house that has an old wood stove, havent been able to find a name on it. Will try to post a pic if i can figure out how. Would like to figure put what it is if anyone can help. We had the chimney relined by a chimney sweep not long after purchasing the property. Have not run the stove yet, I plan on smoke testing it soon with a smoke bomb. Looking inside the stove, I can see a small gap in the back where I guess it would be the collar meets the wood stove. I will attach a pic of the 2 products I purchased from the local hardware store this afternoon..if you could please advise if one of them will work, or if there is something else i should use. I would really like to have no smoke spillage if possible. I state it that way because I know someone is going to say some smoke at sometime is almost inevitable...
Before you light it put stove cement on the gap.Start it with a two or three balled up pages of newspaper to see if it's drafting ok.That stove looks like a monster.I'd like to know how it heats.Keep us posted.
That is an old copy of a buck stove. Smoke testing the stove will tell you nothing. If you just light a smoke bomb in any stove without having a heat differential to creat draft smoke will pour out all over the place. The stove itself is probably fine. It will not be efficient at all but it will work. But I see some pretty serious clearance issues.
Both of the products I bought says bonds metal to metal....will that bond be breakable if i need to take it apart? Such as for cleaning/sweeping? I have to be honest and say I'm a bit nervous about lighting/using it. Never burned wood before, even though i sold 50+ loads a year for years. And I'm used to fire..I do prescribed fire and wildland fire for a living. Just not used to having it even contained up in my house.....
I was going to use a handheld propane torch to warm inside stove, hopefully help create/start draft...? BHoller, thanks for the id. Please ellaborate on what you see as clearance issues.... I'm looking for help, and I dont have any paperwork on the stove, or know where to find the clearance information...
Both will bond but will quickly crack and deteriorate if used to fill gaps due to differences in expansion and contraction. How close is the stove to the brick wall and what is behind that brick? Also you don't have anywhere near enough hearth on the sides and the front is questionable
It is probably an unlisted stove unless there is a listing tag on the back. If there is no tag you need 36" clearance to combustibles. And if that brick is on a combustible wall it is still combustible. You also need 18" of hearth on the front and sides.
This is a very old Buck. Looks like my brothers old stove that is about 15 years older than mine. He bought one of the 1st ones of the model 26000/27000/28000 series. His is not UL approved, where mine is. There was a label on the back left on his, and back right on mine... Where the collar meets the stove should have a gasket in there. They are still available for the model I have in my sig...
There was paneling on the wall, when we removed it to sheetrock, wall behind was block. So i imagine there is block behind the brick. The floor is concrete, used to have that indoor/outdoor carpet...we put down LVT. So I guess that is an issue. It has plenty of side clearance to the stove...i.realize the footprint of the hearth may not be big enough. Could those heatproof panels help short term with that if placed on floor? I want a new stove, just not sure if that's in the $ works right now. But safety #1, so if that means i don't run the stove then so be it.
Well if that brick is actually on the block that is good. But it doesn't look like you have 36" when measured from the stove to the wall next to the brick diagonally anyway.
If by diagonal you mean from the back corner of the stove to the edge of the brick where it meets sheetrock...thats right at 20-21 inches.... Am i correct that I'm reading that some of the newer stoves have much smaller clearances, and that for some the hearth only has to be so that embers dont catch?
Model 26000, 27000, 28000 & Carolina 1 @ 11 Here's a link to some parts and a manual for the older Buck Stoves. Clearances for the freestanding variation are in the manual.
I really don't think that is an actual buck. It just doesn't look right for a buck. And regardless if there is no tag on it the clearances revert to that of an unlisted stove. So 36"
I will try to look it over better for some kind of tag, though I would have thought there would be a name easily seen. 36 inches is huge... pretry much need that in the middle of a garage or something. Stupid question...is sheetrock considered a combustable? There is baseboard trim, so that is also a combustable too close. Surprised the lady didnt catch the paneling on fire.... Thanks BHollar, Stumpy and Rich for your replies and help
Yes sheetrock is combustible. And that 36" can be reduced to 12" with a proper ventilated heat shield. And no woods stoves can't go in garages in the states.
Detached garage out back, like workshop is what i meant. Ventilated heat shield...is that stove specific or a generic item I can buy? Any way to solve my hearthpad issue without tearing stuff up and rebuilding?
Still can't install a stove in a garage detached or not. A ventilated heatsheild is explained in nfpa 211. It is a noncombustible rigid surface spaced on the wall at least 1" with noncombustible spacers. It also needs a 1" space top and bottom to let air in and out.
It may be said by some that the stove isn't the same as what the manual presents but they sure look like the same stove to me.Those clearances are much less than what's been quoted.I think the owner's in good shape.
It doesn't look the same the manual shows glass doors every buck I have seen says buck on the damper handle and regardless without a tag it is an unlisted stove which means the clearances I listed are correct There were lots of shops copying the look of buck there are thousands of lookalikes out there and most of those including early bucks were never tested properly for clearances. There is no way you can possibly assume it's fine just by looking at the face of a stove. The buck in that manual had a triple wall surround with a blower in the back. Which was a horrible idea btw. Most copies only had a double wall some just single. That drastically changed the clearances
