Well I mentioned to my main man that I fixed up the 034 S and he goes "I got this limbing saw that one of my guys dropped. Can you swap out the handle from a donor saw?" and I of course said sure. Next thing I know he just brought over SIX of them. I got some work ahead of me. Two with broken handles, one with no compression, one with a good motor but cracked (unrepairable) oil tank/case and I made sure to record our conversation on video so that I wouldn't forget anything. Btw there was zero discussion about money other than I asked if I was allowed to buy parts if needed and he said he has a huge box o' parts so he probably has what I need anyways. Gonna have to clean up my workbench. Hahahahaha. Here are a few pics. Yeeeeeeeeeeeee haw!
Holy moly whatever it is you got it BAD!!!! Hahahahahaha. NICE. That is quite the collection and it's awesome. Are they all yours???
two are in line to be gone through for others Husky 262xp Stihl 031 the rest are mine, for good or bad
Took apart the first 2 saws. It was pretty straight forward but a bit cramped compared to the bigger saws. 194T with a 193T donor I think. It was missing the flywheel cover. After taking the broken handle off and removing the wires at the switch, by the time I got the carb off I saw some problems right off the bat. Can't use the donor handle as the impulse line is in a different spot. The boot is in a different shape and size. The donor one had a metal ring inside the boot and the original did not. I'm going to have to see if there's a matching handle for that particular carb but it doesn't look like it. I think this is the only 194T. Fast forward. I got 2 saws up and running with donor handles. 1 saw that is a donor has a cracked oil housing with good compression but it has an older 192t handle and carb which doesn't fit the 193t or 194t. There is another 192t that has no compression and the old style handle. There's only one 194t and it currently doesn't have a working handle. I got two 193t running. There's another 193t that is running and I thought "Yay I can just put the bar on from this other saw....." until I took the cover off and the clutch just fell on the floor. The tip of the crankshaft was snapped off right at the threads so that saw needs a complete rebuild. Here are some pics. I don't think I can hammer that bar back into shape........ This guy needs to clean his saws more often. Here's where I saw the difference in the carbs. The impulse line is part of the boot on the older models whereas the newer ones it is a separate hole below the intake boot. The support brackets for the intake boot are shaped different accordingly. This spring was stretched and bent out of shape when the saw was dropped. Can't reuse that I don't think. Here's the clutch with the snapped crankshaft. Here's what the boot looked like. It got pushed in somehow.
Here's a short video that shows this weird whirring/clicking sound. I went to sharpen the 2nd saw and noticed it was way louder than the other saw and also the chain didn't move as smoothly either. I took the bar off and filed the burr. Also noticed a 3rd spare bar was slightly bent so that's not going to be used. I don't know this saw but I don't think it should sound like this. I don't think I took a picture of the rim sprocket/clutch cover (combo 1-piece unit) but it looked like the teeth on the sprocket were a tad bit on the notched side. I think maybe that's the problem. It's almost like a ticking sound. I took the bar and chain off and spun the drum thinking maybe it was the needle bearing but it was smooth on both saws. What do you guys think is the issue?
He's giving me one of the working saws for my troubles. Paying me for any parts I need to order. I just ordered part of a handle for the 194t for $50. Paying me $20 for filling up the tanks with VP premix and bar oil. Great learning experience for me.
Here's a pic of the sprocket from the noisiest saw. The other complete saw's sprocket looks like this too. And here's a video of me turning the sprocket.
Typically I replace spur sprockets due to wear on the spur. Occasionally I’ll see some that are worn on the inside where the clutch engages. Check that area closely on all drums. I’ve heard clicking like you describe. Could be- drum, needle bearing itself, needle bearing contact surfaces, brake band interference, oiler tang (if present) or worm gear, and more.
Thanks. I think the spur sprocket is the culprit. It makes no noise when the b/c is off the saw and I spin the sprocket but there is a lot of wear on the sprocket in this pic. There shouldn't be grooves like that. If it makes the noise when the engine is off then the clutch/worm gear/oil pump can't be causing the noise since the sprocket is disconnected from all those parts, right?
Yep, could be. It’s hard to see on my phone but it could be the wear (there’s a spec for that) or even the chain itself. Switch chains between the two saws. Any difference?
Depending on the saw, the drum does engage the oiler worm gear. Not sure on this model but I believe it doesn’t have a tang.
Yeah I did but both sprockets on the working saws are about the same. I will try on another saw that doesn't look as bad but I have a feeling that's the culprit. It's a pretty deep groove, two grooves in fact. I'll have to take a look at the manual but both working seem to be pushing plenty of oil. Yeah by how dirty the saws are I'd gander these have been pushed pretty hard and hard past their limit.
One bar was bent beyond repair. I missed it at first. The chain on the super bent saw was toast as well.
Tried it on the 194 which has a nice looking sprocket and it sounds a lot better. Thanks for the advice BuckthornBonnie. Here's a short video. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y7QzprbYkXJ5jWp46
