Been using my new 261 for a couple weeks now. I put my used 20" bar from my 290 on it. Noticed the paint coming off and the "rainbowed" metal by the groove. I have flipped the bar once and new chain has been/is sharp when cutting. Is this a sign of insufficient lubrication? There is an oil adjuster screw and ive used it "as is" out of the box. Which way should i turn the screw for more oil? Been cutting green hickory and red oak the last 3-4 tank fulls so the chain gets "caked" with residue.
Turn the adjustment clockwise to increase the oil flow . The discoloration looks ,to me , to be from the process of heat hardening of the rail from the manufacturing process .
buZZsaw BRAD, I can't remember off the top of my head for certain, but I think clockwise is more. Please don't hold me to it. After adjustment, test it out to see how much oil you get off of the tip showing on a cut piece at WOT (wide open throttle). I have always adjusted my oilers so they are putting out as much as possible as long as the saw will run out of fuel before it runs out of bar oil. It may cost me a little more oil this way, but more lubrication is a good thing!
That chain doesn't look too healthy either..which will obviously heat your bar up as well. Just turn the oiler all the way up. Especially with a 20" bar.
Yesterday I just happened to check for a bit of spray off the bar. It was too light and the chain was nearly dry. Cleaning the bar’s oil access hole did it for me.
Not to change the subject but it looks like you need to get lower with your file while sharpening. That should pull chips better and reduce heat. The bar rails are induction hardened, and once the paint is off, you can see the rainbow coloring all along the rail.
chain was brand new Carlton. The teeth have maybe 12 strokes (sharpened twice at 6 strokes each time) with a 3/16" file or are you referring to the depth gauges/rakers Duane(Pa)?
Does the factory set the screw according to the bar size shipped with the saw? It came with a 20" bar. Im using the same sized bar from my 290 SAWMIKAZE
The factory usually sets adjuster screw in the middle. Turn CW all the way up, check oil hole in bar. All good advice above. Never run a Carlton chain, but looks like don't have enough hook on top plate. Is that your semi-chisel chain?
No, not the rakers. File so the side view profile is more of a complete ) shape. More hook, or for lack of a better word pointier at the top.
I know the question is about lube. The whole premise of the EMatic system is to use less oil (more effectively) and be more environmentally friendly. You may find it oils just barely enough even at full open. Just where we’re at with the EPA these days...
I stole this from the web. Harden Steel Updated April 24, 2017 By Sean Mann When heating steel it's important to understand how different temperatures affect the color and chemistry of the steel. Working with steel and modifying its color involves setting up a sufficient heat source, heating the steel to the desired color, then quenching and tempering it. At high temperatures, steel takes on colors ranging from dull red to bright yellow, while at low temperatures it changes into colors such as brown, purple, blue and grey. Prepare an appropriate heat source, such as a charcoal fire, a propane forge, a torch, high temperature salt bath or electric furnace. Ideally, the heat source will provide a uniform heat, be easily controlled and provide a non oxidizing environment. Heat the steel to temperatures from 400 to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, to produce oxidation colors. At 480 degrees F., the steel turns brown, at 520 degrees, it turns purple, at 575 degrees, it turns blue and at 800 degrees, it turns grey. These temperatures are commonly used in tempering tool steel. I know for a fact my bars have never been this hot from cutting.
That is a full chisel. Scored two "new" (one was out of box and the other was in box, but package was beat up. Chains were fine) Carltons off ebay for $25 including shipping. Used to use them back in the 90's. Had the little "File'o plate" sharpening guide from Carlton too. The saw came with a new semi chisel chain which i havent used yet. Prefer full chisel. I think it may be my sharpening. I tilt the file down about 10* when filing. I think that is the issue. Its only been touched up a couple times since new so maybe 12-15 strokes off each tooth.
Now that you mention it and i look at it there is not enough hook. Thanks for pointing that out Duane(Pa). I think i tilt the file at about 10* when i sharpen and this brand of chain may not need that and looks like that could be the cause. Older eyes and poor lighting dont always help when i sharpen. (all hand filed freehand) I think both times it was done on the bar while the bar was in the vise. Only been sharpened twice as well. My old 16" chains from the 290 (.325 pitch) i was using a 7/32" file to sharpen and not a 3/16". Same file was used for both .325 and .375 and seemed to cut without issue.
not sure as i didnt check, but turned it up a little. that bar has seen little use since i bought it used last year for my 290. Only was used couple times then and maybe 5 tanks of gas on the new 261. The paint seemed to wear off all the sudden. I am pretty religious about flipping the bar every sharpening to promote even wear.