Ms 310 sprocket

Think i need to replace the sprocket on my 310. Vids look easy enough to do myself, though I'm not much of a mechanical diy'er usually.

See various sprockets online....should i get one from stihl/dealer, or are there good non-stihl options that anyone can recommend? Any to stay away from? Any other tips or advice? Thanks

 

Welcome aboard.
It’s not that difficult. Hardest thing is the clutch removal.

Why do you think you need to replace it?

 

No need to remove the clutch. Pop the E-clip off and replace the clutch drum with this and next tine just replace the rim.

 

Its pretty grooved. I'll try to get a pic and post sometime. I actually meant to do that this weekend to see what people advised, but the seasonal activities took over....

 

when you get ready to put the new one on make sure you get the arm of the worm gear into the little slot in the drum

 

I would stick with Sthil or Oregan brand. I've used some farmtech from hutzl, and they have been good half the time. Half the time they were out of round so bad they couldn't fit into the saw.

I always replace the clutch drum bearing too.

 

Finally remembered to take a pic of sprocket when i was home...

Time to replace? I need to look at bar too, probably time for a new one, may be why there's multiple 'gouges' in sprocket?

 

ive seen worse but yes id change it

 

Yes. It's time for a new sprocket. You have 3 groves on each tooth. Not only is the drive Link touching the sprocket teeth but the top link/connecting bars are cutting into it.

Your chains will wear out faster. Sthil chains have a wear indicator on the bottom of the tooth link. Normal bar wear usually won't kill a chain on the link bottom but extra sprocket contact will.

 

Fifelaker said "yup, inboard atihl, my mistake"... What does that mean?

Ah so thats what the 'side' marks are.. Does that just happen over time, or is there another issue going on that causes it?

 

normal for spur just needs changed and would be better to go with the rim drive

 

Is that what Fifelaker posted above?

 

yes when you change it to rim drive the next time it needs changed you just have to change the sprocket and not the whole clutch drum

 

Ok thanks. The one Fifelaker posted has two rims included so that's a plus

 

Finalky ordered the sprocket, putting it on. Have what seems to be a problem. It came with a bearing, but the bearing is bigger than the original. The issue is the "length"...it is a bit long, so once i get the washer on I cant get the clip on. Cant use the old bearing because hole in the new sprocket is sized for the bigger bearing...

 

Will the e-clip fit if you flip the washer over?

 

Negative, tried that.

Even tried the old washer...its larger around, but more saucer shaped..the outer edge isnt as bent or 'rimmed' so a more gradual taper. Thinking this would allow the clip to get in there..no dice.

 

Well,. The big bearing appears to be the correct one for that sprocket. It sits flush with the outer surface of the sprocket shaft. Is the clutch drum is sitting correctly with the slot on the oil pump drive arm? For a quick fix I would sand or file the c-clip just a bit thinner to get it on.

I've done it on drive shaft ujoints to adjust preload when they were replaced.

 

Yeah the drum and sprocket fit good, and the slot is right. The problem really seems to be the bearing being a bit too "long".