Insulated liners are designed just for that. Are you considering Class A inside your masonry chimney?
Not sure what you mean by " insulated stainless pipe "? Those of us that use our masonry chimneys line them with stainless. Some use rigid liner, others flexible. Both types come with or without insulation. The pipe connects directly to the stove and runs to the top of the chimney. If you just want to line a chimney to use with an open fireplace it can be done also. There are fittings for the bottom end of the pipe that mount in the smoke-box at the top of the fireplace. A little more detail on what you want to do (install a stove in front of the fireplace, install an insert, etc...) and there will be more answers I'm sure. KaptJaq
My wife and I purchased a new homewith a wood stove all ready installed. The home is a bi level with the overhang in the rear.The previous owner built a masonry chimney with clay liner on the back of the house, but because of the overhang from the bi level part of the house they used clay liner covered in cement ran horizontal threw the wall to connect to the chimney. I want to use a piece of class a to make this connection.
I cannot see any reason you could not use a section of class A, I suspect you are wanting to run that out through the piece of clay liner. To be really honest you would be much happier if you dropped an insulated liner down that chimney as well. It is much easier to clean (I used a chimney with just clay flue liners before putting in an insulated liner) and it is much safer and the liner will stay much warmer than just the clay lined chimney which will help with creosote build up. We can help with pic uploading too as we would like to see this set up so we can give proper advise....welcome aboard.....what part of Ohio ?
Wow.....I have never see anything quite like that, with the chimney out from the wall. I don't really like the idea of class A for that, given it will be laying on the ground. Others may disagree. I believe if it were me I would dig down far enough to set concrete chimney blocks sideways then either run your class A through that or drop a liner and put an insulated stainless connector through there.....just some thoughts.
Wow, that's...uh, interesting. I'm with LP on this one, never seen anything like that before! I don't see why you couldn't replace that with a section of class A. You could put chimney blocks in as Locust Post suggested. Me, I'd just dig out the width of the chimney about 6" below the pipe clear back to the foundation, then put "retaining walls" on the sides to keep it dug out, like a window well. As LP said, you will need to make sure there is rise on the run...IIRC 1/4" per foot is bare minimum, and 10' maximum horizontal run... and even that far will perform poorly. And yeah, an insulated liner in the chimney is a great idea too.
Very unique setup. Class A has insulation between the double wall stainless. If you bury it in the dirt, the insulation will get saturated with cold ground water. If the exhaust temp falls below 212F, the moisture in the exhaust will condense causing creosote build up. Not good. I'd keep the Class A open as brenndatomu suggested. And dry.
I knew before you posted the last picture from a distance, what you were saying. The correct way to have done that chimney if they wanted it right there would have been to put it flush against the bottom where you have the issue and then run it inside the house through the overhang section. Would have looked better as well. Not faulting you though, just commenting. I don't know about the retaining wall idea as it would be a debris trap for leaves, maybe mice in the winter with the nice warm pipe, of course unless I am not understanding it correctly. I thought of the chimney block because it would be closed on all sides.