In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Log splitter mods!

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by the GOAT, Feb 24, 2014.

  1. the GOAT

    the GOAT Banned

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    I have a northern tool 30 ton horizontal/vertical splitter... It's the typical setup that puts the tires right in the way of where you want stand. And the engine is mounted in a way that logs stuck to the wedge can damage it if you are not paying attention when the cylinder retracts. I almost never use it vertically. So I decided to make a few changes.

    The end goal is a horizontal only splitter with a log lift (with better ergonomics)

    Step one was to reverse the tongue directions and move the mounting point of the beam back


    So from this
    [​IMG]
    To this
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. the GOAT

    the GOAT Banned

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    Just need to learn how to weld and buy a welder before I can go much further.

    But I will be moving the valve to the top of the cylinder so I can use the splitter from either side.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 24, 2014
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  3. Stinny

    Stinny

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    It's always interesting to see how we all choose to use splitters. You'd rather use it horizontally and the way it was designed (badly) it wasn't easy to use. Your "fix" looks good. Ought to work a lot better horizontally.

    My Troy Bilt has the same issues as yours, but I'm rigging to run the splitter vertical all the time, with the work area at waist height. I almost think the TB was designed to use vertically all the time, and lay it down to move it. I'll have it on a utility trailer at home or in the back of my truck, when we need it at our cabin.
     
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  4. fox9988

    fox9988

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    Mike, my splitter has a homemade work table on each side of the beam built off the original log catcher. It works well in the horizontal mode and protects the engine. I'll try to get a couple of pics for you.

    I need to build a stop to limit my stroke length. My max length wood is 18" and the splitter opens up to around 30". So, it's keep an eye on the return stroke and try to get a free hand to stop it at 20" or cycle all the way through an extra 20" of travel. I have had a plan in my head for a few years now, just haven't got around to it yet.
     
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  5. Stinny

    Stinny

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    Your idea might be similar… I've seen a simple way to get the ram to bump the hydraulic lever to it's centered (off) position… using 1/4" rod and some eye bolts for the rod to slide back and forth in… the rod hit a swing arm that put pressure on the control to shut it off. Every splitter might be a little different, but it's definitely possible and a good idea to save a little wasted ram time if possible.
     
  6. the GOAT

    the GOAT Banned

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    To limit the stroke is their a reason you couldn't just drill a couple holes through the beam behind the log pusher where you want it to stop. And then put a couple bolts through the holes for the log pusher to bump up against.?
     
  7. the GOAT

    the GOAT Banned

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    If I had known about the waist height vertical splitters before I might have bought that instead... I really wanted the but couldn't justify the cost.

    The Troy built with the half length beam lends itself well to being converted to a vertical only... I couldn't figure a way to convert mine without cutting everything up. I should be able to get close to a timber wolf style with a few incremental mods.
     
  8. Stinny

    Stinny

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    Maybe. Try it and see if the ram either shears off the bolts or it stops the engine, or it creates pressure that trips the control. Dunno… Guys that work on splitters would know for sure.
     
  9. Stinny

    Stinny

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    Well… vertical splitters are only waist high if you get them up on a waist high surface, like a trailer or a tailgate…
     
  10. the GOAT

    the GOAT Banned

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    These make a lot of sense -- more common in europe/australia. There have been a few threads on other sites where people converted the splitters with half length beams into one of these.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 24, 2014
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  11. Stinny

    Stinny

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    Yep… there ya go… at least for me. If I can stay upright for most of a work session, the rest of that day goes a lot better…
     
  12. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I have a small 21 ton MTD/Troy Bilt, but added a small steel plate to the opposite side cradle. It will hold a fairly large "half" once split. So you can work on one, without putting the other half on the ground. These pics are a couple years old (when I first put it on)

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  13. tfdchief

    tfdchief

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    That's what I want. How is it mounted to the beam. Would be interested in a pic of that.
     
  14. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    The cradles came from the factory. I just added the small sheet of steel.

    There is small "Tabs" or "Ears" that the cradles mount to. The tabs are welded to the beam.
     
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  15. tfdchief

    tfdchief

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    Thanks!
     
  16. swags

    swags Moderator

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    On the Huskee like I have I've seen a hole cut in and a 1" pin out in to stop it around 18". Looks like It would work well. I actually bought the pin but haven't got around to making the mod yet.
     
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  17. nate

    nate Banned

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    You can by cylinder stops at the farm store that go on the rod for this purpose. Or just make one... Easy enough.
     
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  18. Art C

    Art C

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    Maybe a little off topic, maybe not. I apologize if I am.
    I've always been a maul and wedge splitter and have enjoyed doing it for many years. :axe:

    Now, either I'm getting older or wood is getting heavier and harder to split by hand. I'll opt for the later. So, maybe I'll invest in a splitter. I'm impressed with the wood-splitters in this thread, and your innovations.

    Quite a few of my co-workers have gone away from hydraulic and gone to rack & pinion splitters.
    Like the SuperSplit (and DR version)


    What are your thoughts, pros/cons? Suggestions?
     
  19. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    This depends on a couple of different things. The method you describe will put uneven force on the end of the cylinder rod. If the rod is threaded, you could distort the threads over time. If the rod is pinned to the wedge, then you could shear the pin as it is almost certainly the weak point in the system. That might be ok with you.

    In any case, it will also create the potential to wear out the guides on the push plate/wedge and bend/break the end of the rod, especially if the end is smaller diameter than the rest of the rod. If I were to attempt this kind of mod, I would probably build a bolt-on bulkhead with a notch in it to clear the rod but build it in such a way as it contacts the wedge near where the rod attaches.

    I wonder if anybody has machined a slug to throw in front of the piston and move the rear anchor for the cylinder up the appropriate amount?
     
  20. the GOAT

    the GOAT Banned

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    I've never seen one of those in person, in the videos they seem to work well for straight grained wood, not sure how well they would work for the gnarly knot filled yard trees that my tree service friend drops off.

    And it's a horizontal only splitter with no easy way to add a log loft so you will have to lift every log onto the table -- not a problem for some that can control the round sizes but I get some big rounds dropped off. I usually quarter the big ones with a chainsaw but often lift more then I should because it's quicker :(

    Before anyone buys any splitter I'd try to use a couple different types to get a feel for the best ergonomics.