This was frustrating. I post this for others to find this thread if they come across this in the future. The Kohler SH265 engine, 6.5hp, on my Countyline 25-ton splitter will not start, it sat up for months. So, I wanted to check the spark plug, as I did start is a few months back but it died and would not start again with multiple tries. The dang spark plug wire that attaches to the end of the spark plug has a metal sheath over it. I've never seen anything like this. It fully encloses the wire, it's about 6 inches long. I assume it is a heat shield, as it is next to the muffler. It looks like it is hinged but saw no clasp on it to remove it. I was hesitant to yank on something I knew nothing of and a google search was of no help until I found a thread elsewhere where a fellow was confused as me. The answer he got from the mechanic seemed simple but was actually confusing to me due to the way he worded it. I was afraid I might tear something up, lol, but I finally figured out that I need to just twist the metal shield and yank harder. You can grasp the metal shield (assuming it's not hot!) and pull hard and the plug wire will disconnect from the spark plug. Kinda like normal, except you have this heat shield thing (along with the wire) in your hand, lol. So, there ya go. I even asked two mechanically-minded friends and they didn't know exactly what to do either. A picture is below. Turns out, I have no spark, so, will replace the plug and go from there.
Gee! My County Line 25 ton got caught in flood waters a couple of years ago and I pulled the plug to pump the cylinder full of WD 40 to get the water out. I don't remember any trouble getting the plug out at all. It has the same setup as yours. I just pulled the housing, wire and unscrewed the plug. BTW, the splitter suffered no ill effects, starts on the third pull, runs like a champ and doesn't use oil.
Thanks for posting that. I found this on a google search and it was here all along! I ran into the exact same situation on mine. I will try in a few days as time allows me and see if that works.
BTW, I had decided to start replacing parts, the cheapest first. But before I did that, I decided to, one last time, try to crank it. Would you believe... it cranked first pull and has, months later, cranked every single time the first pull? I have no idea what was wrong and then what got right, lol.
Probably just flooded...then after sitting a while the excess fuel evaporated, back to square one then.
No cold weather during this entire period. As for flooding, this refusal to start happened over several weeks, so, it doesn't seem it would be that but I am no expert. I thought a flooded engine would clear out in a short time. Also, recall that I did not even see a spark in some of this story.
Flooding can sometimes clear up on its own after a short time...depending on severity, etc. You can also speed it along by turning off the choke and opening the throttle fully, (turn the gas off too, if you can) give a few pulls...works better than 50% of the time. Sometimes the engine will fire as you are clearing it out, sometimes you will have to go back to "normal" start procedure afterwards. Sometimes you will need to pull the plug and clean/dry it. I liked to hit the electrodes with a wire brush to clean, check/set the gap, and sometimes dry/warm the electrodes a bit with a propane torch too (if its wet from flooding) Sometimes the plug is "fouled"...which just means the spark isn't jumping across the gap, either because of debris of some sort getting in somewhere it shouldn't be (causing a short) or the plug can be physically/electrically broken, which is often referred to as "fouled" too. If cleaning it doesn't do the trick, replacement is the next step. If the new plug doesn't have spark, then there is some sort of electrical issue.
Got the plug out today and cleaned it up with a wire brush and toothbrush. Put it back in and it fired right up. It was just fouled with a lot of black carbon. Back in business!
Btw, on a slightly different question but about your splitter...have you changed the oil yet? My instructions show the oil drain plug underneath but I don’t see it. Do I have to unbolt the engine from its mount to get to it?
I have a hole where the dipstick is and one on the opposite end of the motor where the drain is and both have a yellow cap that looks similar/same. I don't know how it happened but one of them, the plastsic cap/stick got broken. When I remove it again, I will need to replace the part.
I'm pretty sure they supply 2 drain plugs, but only 1 is really somewhat accessible. The one on the side of the engine closest to the beam. I think at least I haven't looked at mine in a while, only needed to change the oil once so far. I bought a drainzit adapter that I am installing when I do my next oil change. Should make for much easier oil changes in the future. I'm due again but I'm not doing it until I need to use the splitter again. I need to go move my splitter today so I'll look and update if I am wrong.
