Jotul 602 Cuttie

Discussion in 'Non-EPA Woodstoves and Fireplaces' started by M2theB, Apr 30, 2021.

  1. M2theB

    M2theB

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    In laws are getting this out of the house and I’m helping them get it into the market
    Anybody have an idea of the market price on this guy?

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  2. M2theB

    M2theB

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    CAAE8B36-F61E-483C-9940-BB6782CAEFBB.jpeg

    Looking for some pro tips on this one.
    I’ve had a couple bites on the stove but both are hesitant because they don’t want to deal with the top exhaust cover plate screws.
    Right now they stuck. Meaning the won’t come out with a screw driver and a half arsed attempt to heat from the inside, after WD 40.
    I’ve got a couple ideas, and the first is to soak repeatedly with a good penetrating oil. I’ve got time on my side.
    What else do you have or have you done.
    Screws have been in place since new, 50 years or so.
     
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  3. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Keep soaking with oil, when the time comes, heat again...use a small acetylene torch if you have one, or MAP gas if not, it burns hotter than straight propane.
    Concentrate the flame (this is where the small acetylene torch would shine) on the screw threads as much as possible, make them orange/red hot...try to back out while still glowing hot, a helper might be a good idea here...if you can't get a decent grip on the screw head you may have to "chisel it off"...while the screw threads are red hot get a center punch or small chisel and a hammer to tap the screw in the right direction (counterclockwise I would assume) using the screwdriver slot as place to catch the point or edge of the chisel/punch in to start...then it may dig into the bolt head further as things progress...try not to dig into the stove body though...although you will want to stay toward the outer edge of the screw head as much as possible since that gives you more "leverage" to turn the screw.
    Worst case scenario, you can mark the VERY center of the screw(s), then drill the head off...at that point you move down a couple drill sizes and drill down through the center of the screw...then you will end up drilling the hole to the tap drill size for that size screw (1/4"...or probably 6mm metric?) once this is done (if the hole is dead centered) the body of the screw is gone and the threads can be cleaned out with a tap of the proper size...drilling it out is best left to someone with some skill and experience at doing this procedure though...you can screw things up in a hurry!
    The screws will probably need to be replaced using doing either procedure...you should be able to find something to fit at the local hardware store....
     
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  4. Wolley

    Wolley

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    Heat and candle wax supposedly works to get into the threads.

    Put a tight fitting screw driver in the slot and tap on it helps some times.

    Near last resort get a drill the size of the thread. Drill just deep enough so the head of the screw comes off. Then vice grips on the remainder of the screw once the cover is out. When that does not work drill and tap or drill bigger and use a nut and bolt.

    Once you succeed on the top, you can start on removing the back flange to swap them out. GL
     
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  5. M2theB

    M2theB

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    All in the plan B, C and D, except the candle wax. Candle wax is a new twist for me.

    Plan A is the good soak with a good oil. I’m a fan of Kroil and have only used PB product, Blaster, for engine clean to light off.

    Thanks
    I’ll keep us posted
     
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  6. fishingpol

    fishingpol

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    Pb Blaster. Let it soak for a day or so. A little heat on the screws after should break it free. Screwdriver and many taps from a small ball peen hammer to loosen the rust grip.

    I would say $500 - 700 cleaned up. These would get cracks on the back plate under the outlet and inner burn plates warp if overheated. That one looks good. Great little heater and easy to run.
     
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  7. M2theB

    M2theB

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    Thats where we’ve got it 5 to 7. And have gotten some good interest. It’s sold when I get the screws loose.
    I have some PB Blaster I use to clean out and start old saws. Is it the same stuff?
     
  8. fishingpol

    fishingpol

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    The rust penetrat PB. I've had good luck with it and the vise forums I read recommend it. Maybe a good idea to wipe the enamel after spraying PB. Not sure if it can damage the finish or stain it
     
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  9. Hoytman

    Hoytman

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    Kroil is King!! Love it, but can no longer buy it direct, which sucks. “One millionth of an inch...”

    Been out of Kroil for a while now. Been using PBB in its place for a year or more now and not impressed.

    In fact, tranny fluid and kerosene soaks work about as good as anything when I have no Kroil.
     
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  10. Warner

    Warner

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    I’d be tempted to try an impact screwdriver after a good long soak with penetrant. Heat the inside thread area then give it a wack.
     
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  11. RGrant

    RGrant

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    That's a lovely looking beast.
    I think the 5-7 range is about right with or without the screws able to come out of that top plate.

    I got no business needing it, but I sure do want it! lol

    Hope you get a buyer.
     
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  12. M2theB

    M2theB

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    Thanks all
    Tried tapping the screws, PB penetrant, Liquid Wrench similar product
    Got a bite on CL from a guy who wants the rear exhaust.
    Easy decision
    Went out the garage at 6 beans this morning.