In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Insulation and other improvements

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by schlot, Jun 12, 2015.

  1. schlot

    schlot

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    When we bought this house I knew improving the insulation and efficiency was going to be one of my first tasks.

    So after working on years of neglect to the yard (I wanted to start off right with the neighbors) I started in the basement insulating the rim joist area.

    [​IMG]

    I've tried before to just caulk the rim joist to sill plate joint to prevent air leaks but I never could get the caulk gun into that area very well so I decided to use spray foam.

    [​IMG]

    Cut a small batt to sit above the spray foam.

    [​IMG]

    Cut a larger batt to cover them both.

    Take that cold weather! Now only 35 more to go! :)
     
  2. lukem

    lukem

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    I did the same thing in this house. An itchy job for sure, but I could definitely tell a difference.
     
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  3. schlot

    schlot

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    Didn't I tell you about that...it's not cotton candy so quit trying to eat it. :)

    I lucked out, the basement is on the short side 6'-6" or so to the bottom of the floor joists so at least I don't have to use a step stool to do this work.

    Bad part is I always feel like I'm going to clock myself on the joists. No skipping in the basement for me! :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2015
  4. DaveGunter

    DaveGunter

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    I did the same job in my home, not a fun time. I cut and pieced in 2" foil faced polyiso, and spray foamed around the edges. If I were to do it again I would spray foam the whole bay.
     
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  5. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Good on you. The work is short lived, the benefit is long-term.

    Greg
     
  6. schlot

    schlot

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    I've seen that done before and it looks pretty professional.
     
  7. Norky

    Norky

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    I insulated the rim joists winter before last and it helped a lot when it got frigid. This fall I plan to insulate the cold air returns. They're directly exposed to the brick and bug the heck out of me.
    Nice work, I like the foam seal.
     
  8. schlot

    schlot

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    Thanks man. I here you on the cold air returns. Its an old enough house that the return airs are located on exterior walls.

    I plan on relocating the supply and return vents in the proper locations in most of the rooms to get rid of this very problem.
     
  9. jetjr

    jetjr

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    Man i could probably jump up and down and still not hit my head in there.
     
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  10. Gasifier

    Gasifier

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    Good work Schlot! That will save you some wood and give you some more comfort.
     
  11. VelvetFoot

    VelvetFoot

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    Me too, only I used xps and regular caulk. I cut it close to fit and had to bang a few in, so the caulk was good. The foam in a can was sticky. I have a foam dispensing gun now that might have done a good job, but I don't think it's long enough.

    The "me too" was about getting a guy in to spray foam it.
     
  12. savemoney

    savemoney

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    X2, Insulation should always come first. Another way is not to suck in cold air in the process of heating.
    My stove and furnace are both hooked up to outside air for combustion. That is a big change so no negative air pressure sucking cold air into my house for heating. Stops a lot of the cold drafts and using heated air for combustion and sending up the chimney.
     
  13. Horkn

    Horkn

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    I have to make sure and tilt my head down while walking in my basement. I'm 6'4", and the ceiling is tall enough, but the steel support I beams are just low enough to graze my head.


    I need to insulate my joists like this. I'm sure it would make a big difference in my house.
     
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  14. schlot

    schlot

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    Ditto, 6'4" here too....of course once I put heels on...dang that Sangria! :)
     
  15. Horkn

    Horkn

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    I'm glad you didn't wait until later for that sangria!
     
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  16. Lumber-Jack

    Lumber-Jack

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    If you use that fiberglass insulation you are still suppose to put a vapor seal (poly) around the opening to prevent moisture from flowing through the fiberglass and getting trapped against the wooden joist, and the poly should be caulked all the way around for a proper seal. That's way too much work for me.
    A much better way is to cut rigid foam to fit in between the joist and then go back with a can of spray foam and seal the edges.
    The rigid foam works as an insulator and vapor seal, and best of all you don't get itchy from it or have to worry about breathing in the loose fiberglass fibers.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2015
  17. schlot

    schlot

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    The most operative word you said was "should" :)

    Yes you are right but I won't be going through that work...and with the fiberglass being free to me from some extra my brother had I will just stick with this route.

    The "no cost" benefit is a big factor looking at the other upgrades I need to do.

    I do like the look of rigid foam installation you used though!
     
  18. Lumber-Jack

    Lumber-Jack

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    Always nice if you can use free material to do a job, was the foam also free?
    It might end up costing you more in the long run however when the rim joists start rotting out. Actually looking at your second picture you can see some water staining on the on the wooden sill plate already.
    I'd be checking it frequently just to make sure it never gets to this point.
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Horkn

    Horkn

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    I like that idea Lumber-Jack .


    I hate working with fiberglass. I get enough of that working on my boat.

    Since I have to buy materials anyway, I'd rather do it this way.
     
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  20. schlot

    schlot

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    No...I had to purchase the foam. But whatever route insulation I used it would have been necessary.

    The staining you see is from is from front deck issue I'm fixing.

    I'm betting any rot I see from using fiberglass insulation will be pretty minor... I'm a gambling man I guess!
     
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