Igniter staying on

Brace yourselves for a bit of a story...

At the time of writing this, I am a new member- I mostly traffic in the other sub-forums because I do not personally own a pellet stove, however I've become a big fan of the way people help each other, so I'm asking for some know-how from those out there.
My cousin and her husband have a pellet stove- the specific model is the England's 25-PDVC / 55-SHP 10 per the stamp on the back of the unit. In conversation with my cousin's husband he said that he wasn't planning on using the pellet stove any more because his electric bill was through the roof. I was a bit surprised but didn't think much of it. Then we had the conversation again and I got curious so I watched a few videos online and an idea stuck in my head.
What I think is happening is the igniter is turning on, drawing high on the electricity to heat the burn pot up to ignite the pellets and when the pellets have ignited and are able to continue the burn under their own "firepower" and its time for the igniter to stop drawing power.... it stays on.
Has anyone else encountered a situation like this, and if so- what are the steps to take to trouble shoot the problem. I've read in a few places that it could be a loose wire, something wrong with the ignition sensor, or the motherboard.
When I called Matt (my cousin's husband) and suggested that it might be the igniter he was audibly excited to hear that it might be something he could fix. I'd like to try and get to the bottom of it.
This is a link to the manufacturer's site 25-PDVC, 55-SHP10, 55-TRP10 and I'm seeing a couple of parts in there. Some are obviously higher priced than others.
I know I'm asking alot, but does anyone have any experience in this area?

 

Here’s the stamp on the back of the unit.

 

I have worked on many of these stoves and have not seen that case. However that does not mean it cannot happen. It is possible that the Triac on the Control Panel that switches the AC current to the igniter is stuck on with a defective gate in the semiconductor. There is certainly a very easy way to test that condition with a Digital Clamp meter available at Home Depot for approx $40.
Just clamp on to only one of the igniter wires not both! Then watch the current for more than 15 to 20 mins to see if it drops from approx 3 amps to approx 0 amps. If it does not drop then you are correct in your diagnosis. Then let us know either way.
See Digital Clamp Meter here:
Commercial Electric 600A AC Digital Clamp Meter-CM-2033R - The Home Depot

 

Thank you Don.
I'll be heading over there this Saturday for a bit of a visit, I'll raise the possibility and see what comes of it.
In the event that is the issue, what is the recommended course of action regarding the defective gate in the semiconductor?

 

Replace the control panel.
Also Install a Tripp Lite Surge Protecter on the outlet the stove is plugged into because power surges and fluctuations are the most likely cause of the control panel malfunctions and failures.

 

I'm seeing two items in the parts section- I appreciate your help with this, I'm hoping I might ask another quick question for clarity's sake. Regarding the control panel, there is the "Digital Control Board" which I'm almost certain that are referencing, and the "Heat Sensor for Control Board" which I'm pretty sure you're not referencing.

And again, thank you so much for your assistance.

 

Before springing for a new control panel/parts, call the customer service line at Englander..... (800) 245-6489, give them the serial number, and see what they say. How old is the unit? Still under 1 year warranty?

If not, Don has the right idea. And if it DOES turn out to be the board, he is also right about them getting a good surge protector. Many of us on here use this one...a must to stop those surges that can really damage an electronic control board like pellet stoves have:

 

Hello
The Heat Sensor is like a proof of fire type sensor that will shut the stove down for safety after the 20 minute start up period if no heat or fire is detected and is not related to your issue.
A new control panel does come with a new heat sensor.

 

The 3 amp or so draw from the ignitor is not enough to run the electric bill through the roof.

I am suspicious that they may have something else that's using a bunch of wattage

 

I am so out of my element (pun not intended) regarding electricity that I'm open to any suggestions- but the understanding I have is that watts are the amount while amps are the force. I'll look that up and check to see if I have that right. If the igniter for the stove never turns off, and it is running for hours each day, I think that would potentially run up an electric bill.
We'll check it out and see if that seems to be the cause, if not- back to the drawing board.
Which also seems to be a pretty bad pun.

 

Yessss..Amps are the force and watts are the amount being used.

Still, 3 Amp draw is not going to cost a huge amount more....

 

3 amps is about 300 watts.
CT electric rates are about 20 cents per kilowatt hour.
As far as "through the roof" it depends on what a normal bill is like.
My monthly bill is easily $200 per month (latest was 245)
2 2 ton ac units that run usually at nite, even with me working from home now, dehumidifier.
Heat is high efficiency natural gas and pellet..

 

We heat exclusively with the Pellet stoves (Fed hazelnut shells) 2 stoves

We use the air handler for the central AC unit.

We have 2300 feet on the main floor and a separate 1000 foot apartment down stairs that we rent out.

Both are on a single meter...

Bill generally about $220 mo summer and a bit less in winter.

Apartment has a Quad 1000 pellet stove, its own water heater, kitchen and such

Basically 2 homes in one.

Our Cost per KWH is about 13 cents per KWH

After doing the math I can see that having the 300 plus watts added could get an additional $50 on the tab.

Definitely worth scoping out the stove and seeing if the igniter is running all the time.

My little stove is a manual lite and uses an average of about 200 watts

Less than $20 mo for the electricity....

 

yea....I refuse to air condition.....but my dang aquarium lights use power! I run around 140 bucks in summer and a bit more in winter with the pellet stove providing my heat....

 

Any update, RGrant ?

 

Going over to my cousin’s place today to see what’s up with the unit.
Thinking the high electric bill is a combination of using the dryer in the colder months - they use a clothesline when it’s warm, a mini split unit they use in the summer for cooling at the winter for some heat ( does anyone know if heating uses more energy than cooling? I know I can look it up myself, I’ll look around ) and we’re still pretty sure the igniter is staying on- we’ll test it today and see what happens.

 

At one time I thought my igniter was staying on all the time. When the stove cool down quite a bit, I took the igniter compartment plate off and touched the igniter. It was cold. Sounds simple but at least it told me that the igniter was not on.

 

hello,
hope u catch this... need to check also to see if my ignitor is staying on after the harman idiot lite goes off for it.
on my clamp meter do i set it for volts[ac] or the 20amp setting.?

 

You are looking for current flow to the igniter, so use an ampere setting.