Ideal Steel Season #2 Tips, Tricks, and Improvements.

I've been organizing some things I would like to do different this year.

#1. burn more softwood and pine.
#2. Keep the wood behind the andirons as much as possible so there is less ash spillage.
#3. Allow the stove to reach a higher temperature before closing the bypass to ensure the chimney stays clean.
#4. Manage the ash and coaling better.

I'm looking forward to another great burning season!

 

Nothing to add yet, as I haven't had going yet.
Maybe we won't need them this year

 

I'm in because I'm just about to order mine. Replacing an old non epa 1981 Russo coal and wood stove that was here when I bought the place last year. I gave the Russo a good run but I really don't want to get 4 hours of heat out of a load of wood.

Didn't start burning until the beginning of November last year so I should get it in time. Might actually go pick it up and make a 2 day trip out of the ordeal. I'm in NJ and it's about a 5 to 6 hour drive.

 

Does anybody think that the soapstone lining is needed? I don't burn 24/7 and the room that the stove is in is the den which was the garage. I have a gas furnace and the stove supplemented that last year. Once I got the stove going I'd wait an hour and turn on a fan two rooms away to get the heat moving around. Pushing cold air at floor level into the den. About an hour later the heat would be at the other end of the house. I get home from work and would start a fire at around 130 pm last winter. I'd keep it going and go to bed around 10pm. Doing this kept the furnace from coming on until around midnight. I go to work at 430 am so I'm not making fires in the morning. I love 4 miles from work and get up only 20 minutes before I leave the house.

Long story I know, just giving background of my situation. Basically I'd rather have the stove up and spreading heat when I get home from work fast over trying to keep the stove hot a little longer. Every day was a cold start for me and I'm OK with that. Since the IS is going to heat for a lot longer per load of wood anyway and the only time I will consistently doing hot morning starts will be days off is the regular fire brick lining going to be more than adequate or should I just stop thinking about it and get the soapstone liner?

 

Don't over think it. The firebrick will be fine. You shouldn't have to do anymore cold starts. I only started fires a handful of times last winter. Focus on curing your wood and insulation.

 

Just make sure you have the liner either soapstone or firebrick. You should be able to do fewer starts and keep that furnace from running!

 

This year I hope to improve the ashes and coals management as JA600L said, and to fine-tune the sweet spot of when to engage the cat for starts and reloads. Hoping that this year will reveal a good cat probe device to monitor cat engagement experiments (earlier, later, air settings etc.).

 

Yeah I've been thinking about a cat probe too. It seems like the last missing piece.

 

I put this one in mine & really like it !
Catalytic Probe Thermometer for Woodstoves (3-12-1)

 

Haven't had my 1st fire yet, but it was 48 this am, so we're getting closer! Good thread. I'll be following to discover more tips and tricks.

 

Same spot as Brad, not even cured the paint. but I will read your pointers with great interest...

 

Did you have to modify it at all to fit? Any pics?

 

Brad mine has probe hole above door center. They made that adjustment. They mentioned it to me when I picked it up, Penny I believe, I asked her if I needed one but she said not really. put thermostat they give you on pipe, single wall, throw cat on above 250 and don't worry about it. But " some of the FHC, guys are very scientific and want to analyze and completely examine everything which makes them great testers but the stove doesn't require a lot of babysitting"

 

To me it is about the extra assurance that when I leave for work in the am I am good to go in a timely manner. The stove top is delayed. I would love to setup a thermocouple I just don't feel like spending $ on it.

 

I understand wanting to learn and analyze everything. I think we're cut from the same cloth there. I guess I needed to be more specific with my questions, sorry. Did you have to trim down the probe length to fit? How far is the probe from the combuster? mine has the place for the cat probe too, so I'm considering also.

 

Oops! Sorry, my questions should have been directed pappy88. Sorry, Canadian border VT. Got mixed up there.

 

no prob! yeah that makes more sense. in regards to what Penny said that was in a friendly tone. I wanted a stove that once I learned it did not require babysitting she was reassuring me. while complimenting testers!

 

You don't have to babysit it, but there is critical elements to it operating correctly. The more gauges you have the better. I like the probe idea the best so you are seeing internal temperatures faster. I've had it stall on me already for closing the bypass too soon. A good temperature probe would ensure you are at 500 degrees internal.

 

I cleaned the chimney yesterday. I had some build up but nothing terrible.

It is an outside chimney with a liner in it. The liner is not insulated so I expected to have some build up. Overall, the stove did a good of burning clean. I will definitely be burning cleaner this year with very well seasoned wood.

 

Had the stove cleaned and the pipe cleaned by a service yesterday. There was a lot of stuff on top of the stove (corners, sled, etc) before the sweep. The cat gasket fell right off ( I might need a new one) it was very brittle and dry. But the pipe was good to go. I also repainted the front by the cat, the paint had flaked off quite a bit. I also painted the burners, my cast iron steamer left a lot of rust on them. Just need to redo part of the stove pipe and I will be ready for another season of burning.