In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Help me get my little jonsered 2036 back in the game

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by zymguy, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. zymguy

    zymguy

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    I went halves on this saw with my dad when I was a high school jr in 1999.
    I changed the sprocket on it back then to take a bigger chain. It has seen little use , some years I might put a whole gallon of gas through it cutting trails other years it may not have even gotten started .
    This year I started it up , got the choke off and let it idle while I put on ppe.
    I cut for the better part of a tank of gas and noticed towards the end it was idling fast .
    At some point it did stall. Now when it’s warm it does not want to run with the choke off.

    I’ve got it inside today and I’d like to peak at the piston through the muffler. I’m embarrassed to say I can’t get the muffler off .
    I looked at replacement mufflers online and it looks like I need to take the outside of my muffler off to get to a smaller 3d screw on the inside. Anyone got any tricks? Am I missing something obvious? [​IMG]


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  2. zymguy

    zymguy

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    I’m hoping to put a new carb , fuel line and impulse line in this saw because they are not expensive. I’ve got a lot of research to do these tiny lines intimidate me !


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  3. Fifelaker

    Fifelaker

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    Screenshot_20190910-092242_Chrome.jpg
    The front cover should come off, then you can access the rest. A screwdriver is all I have ever used.
     
  4. RabbleRouser

    RabbleRouser

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    The front half of the muffler just needs a little persuasion. A small mallet against the sides, alternating if need be, should loosen it up. Work it gently, don't force it.

    The issue sounds like a fuel restriction. New filter and fuel lines may be all it needs. The carb can be rebuilt instead of replaced, usually very easily. The screen the illustration above shows inside the muffler also likely needs to be cleaned. They get caked up with soot/carbon & rust. A wire brush and a plumbers torch usually makes short work of it.
     
  5. zymguy

    zymguy

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    I did not try any further to get the muffler off . I scraped the biggest chunks of bar oil soaked sawdust shmoo out of the interior plastic then put it back together and burnt a tank of gas troubleshooting. The saw idled too fast . Ran well . I could set the chain break put the saw down, mark a log with a sharpie pick the saw up and buck it and repeat with no running concerns other than it was idleing fast .
    At the risk of sounding stupid, should I just try to turn the high idle down ?


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  6. zymguy

    zymguy

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    [​IMG]


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  7. RabbleRouser

    RabbleRouser

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    The High side adjustment screw is for wide open throttle. You could try turning down the idle screw and see what happens but otherwise, a saw often starts running higher RPM's when it's running lean, being deprived of fuel, which in the case of a two stroke, is also depriving it of oil needed to lubricate the piston/rings cylinder & main bearings. You risk burning up the saw.
    If the saw is that old and run so little, it very likely needs some mechanical attention at this point. First & foremost, replace the fuel filter and be sure you are using fresh gas. That could resolve it right there but it likely needs a carb rebuild &/or new fuel lines.
    Another possiblity when it behaves as you say, needing the choke after it warms up, is the fuel tank vent may be blocked or deteriorated and starting to form a vacuum in the tank. Easy test for this is to just loosen the fuel tank cap when it misbehaves and see if that resolves it.
    It's really not very hard but maybe worth bringing it in for service if you aren't confident in taking it apart.
     
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  8. RabbleRouser

    RabbleRouser

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    Just downloaded the IPL for that saw here www.jonsered.com/ddoc/JONI/JONI2002_AAaa/JONI2002_AAaa_106253163.pdf

    Looks like there is a duckbill valve for the tank vent. 3rd page of the document. It's a little rubber check valve, lets air into the tank as fuel is used. They are notorious for turning to goo over years of storage. Very likely the problem.



    Screen Shot 2019-09-11 at 9.23.12 AM.png
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2019
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  9. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I’d soak the seams with a penatrant and let it sit overnight. Should assist in getting the front off.
     
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  10. zymguy

    zymguy

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    The day after I burnt that tank of gas through it when I went to start it again the chain moved with the recoil rope . I ordered a clutch for it , folded an approx 1/4 in rope stuck it through the spark plug . After taking up the slack I struck the clutch weight with a small brass punch . Before I got the clutch off I discovered the rope is stuck .




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  11. zymguy

    zymguy

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    I took the recoil off put a socket on the flywheel and got the rope out pretty easily. I then stuck the rope back in and changed the clutch without incident.
    It didn’t solve my problem???

    When I pull the recoil the chain spins . It’s in gear so to speak . What’s broken, if not the clutch ???


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  12. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    How about the clutch bearing? The clutch itself all ok? Can you post pics?
     
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  13. Winston

    Winston

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    The stihl ms 170 is on sale for 180$.
     
  14. RabbleRouser

    RabbleRouser

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    2nd vote for the clutch drum bearing.
     
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  15. zymguy

    zymguy

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    As usual you guys were right. I put a new one in and all is well .


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  16. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Good to hear zymguy. :yes: :saw:
     
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