I am the proud owner of a Fisher insert. It is a older model with a chain controlled damper. My chimney is 25’ from top of terra cotter liner to the hearth floor. The opening measures 12x11 1/2”id. My plan is to install a stainless steel 6” insulated liner and installing or fabricating a boot adapter to attach to the insert so I can retain the damper. I’ve read posts on notching the boot adapter to make clearance for the damper rod but to me that would not make a airtight seal. Has anyone else had to adapt a boot to fit a damper rod. Do I use Roxil or furnace cement to make a seal or is there a high temperature bushing I can make or use. Handshakes to you all and proud to be a new member. John Boy Baby Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Welcome aboard. You will get lots of advice and opinions here. I don't have experience with Fisher insert but can offer this. Attached is manual. We have a Grandma Bear in our cabin and eliminated the damper in the stove pipe. Draft is controlled with the 2 intake knobs. With the triple seal on the doors, the fire goes out if the draft knobs are closed completely. Also installed a baffle which improves heat output.
Welcome jewilson , Nice to have you with us! I'm a huge fan of the Fisher wood stoves and burn one as we speak for the last 40 years. I'm not by any stretch an expert at the Inset and sealing them. I will say this, If your draft is straight up and very little obstruction you should have any problem with some minor clearance opening. If you can supply a pic, that would be great and we'll find you some folks on here that can give you better advise!
Kinda depends which way you are headed, no? (down the road, or up the road ) Welcome to FHC jewilson Insert to boot/liner connection needed
Seeing how I live along the blue ridge parkway I guess I’m up the road. Most everything is downhill now me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have been a fan of Fisher stoves since they came out. My mom heated her whole house with a Mama Bear for many years. I would cut split and stack her firewood for over 20 years. I always wanted to get one. I found my insert on Facebook marketplace. I’ve had it sandblasted and I painted it with stove bright. It is in great shape and presently it is wrapped up in plastic on the back porch. I want to line my chimney and I have a Buck Stove LPG fired insert I plan on move out. The damper is on top and the damper rod is 1” in diameter and runs the width of the top about 1/4” above the stove top. Got to figure out how to get the rod to seal to the boot liner so the flue will be air tight. I think this is the place I be to share info about wood heating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pics? From what I think you are describing...I think I would get a short piece 8" stainless steel stove pipe (assuming the Fisher is 6"?) and zip the seam open, then come back away from the vertical edge a couple inches to make a hole the appropriate size for the rod. Now you can drop it over the rod and wrap it around so the rod can be marked on the other side, and again once its wrapped fully around. I would think you could make a slot for the rod where the SS overlaps on the second wrap. Now rivet together using SS rivets in the proper size to make a nice tight seal on the stove and the liner. Oops, wait a minute...it has to go inside the stoves connection! (all chimney connections go male end toward stove to contain any potential creosote leakage) I think the same idea would still work though...just need to make slots in the SS instead of holes. Make sense?
I’m going to think about it. Coaly recommend using a insert boot and notching it for the rod. That was in a very old post. I’ll get some pictures of the damper rod. It all is on top of the insert. The damper control is a length of small chain so it was made before ‘79. Thanks much for your idea in I’m going to ruminate on it awhile. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post a few pics of your outlet. I'd be somewhat surprised if your insert was designed to use 6". I could be wrong also.
No you are correct. The opening is 8” with no flange. They were called slammers and vented directly into the chimney. I think with a 6” boot adapter it will draw just fine. Most Fisher wood stoves I saw used a 6” Stove pipe and worked fine. I am aware that may be against the rules but sometimes common since works for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As you see the opening of the stove is 8”. The damper sits in top with a rod running across the top. This damper control rod will have to be sealed airtight when I connect a flueliner to the insert. I’m looking to you folks and your knowledge and expertise because I know this problem has been solved by someone in the group. I could just not use a damper but I don’t want my heat going out the chimney. Thanks to you all from all the help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Kudos on the insulated liner. On another note does the stove have a baffle of some sort? Is the damper and rod in a fixed position as shown in your photo? Hopefully some of the fellas with Fisher to liner adaptation experience will chime in. Looks to me that getting any relatively common appliance adaptor (likely modified/crimped etc.) to work as shown will be a challenge unless the rod/damper is removed or relocated a bit.
