I have been reading some older posts about Fisher stoves having issues with smoke rolls into the house when the door is open. I know that Mr. Fisher put a lot of thought in designing the double doors stoves so that it took a extra step when opening the door allowing enough time for all smoke to clear the stove and go up the chimney. I thought I had things worked out but now I am concerned about using a 6” liner. The insert has a opening of 8”. My plan was to adapt the size down to 6”. But after pricing a 8” kit I can’t justify spending twice the amount of a 6” system. I have a masonry chimney 25’tall. It is a straight shot from top to bottom. The chimney goes up the side of the house in typical log Cabin style, so it is outside of the house. The flue is 13” x13” and the terra-cotta joints are clean and the flue looks like it was never used. So do you all think I would have problems using the 6” insulated system that costs half of the price of 8” liner or should I bite the bullet and get the 8”. I value all your opinions and thank you for your knowledge and help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Since you have a top exit stove, and a straight shot up, I think you will have no/very little issues...now if it was rear exit, and you had a "through the wall" type chimney, may be issues with that one. If you are going to add a baffle in it (recommended) just make sure you don't pinch the gap between the baffle and the stove top down to less total area than a 6" stove pipe has (28.26 sq in)
Thanks buddy. I will use a baffle after I research the size I need and the placement inside the insert. That will be my last step in this process. Then if others down the road have questions about inserts I will be able and help them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wait a moment- does your actual Fisher stove have an outlet sized at 6" or 8"? Maybe I'm misunderstanding, by you should never reduce from 8" to 6"!
It's 8"...and you are right, however there are some models where under the right circumstances, you can get away with it...some models of Fishers were part of that list...I have no idea if this particular stove is one of the "acceptable" models or not, but I know its been done on some of them with good success...guys like WeldrDave and Coaly would know more particulars about it than me. I believe the consensus is, better off to get rid of the damper and go 6" straight up, rather than try to adapt around the (unneeded) damper and then have to spend big bux on 8" liner, that isn't absolutely necessary. Some Fishers even came 6" IIRC...and there was the XL...some of those were 10" if I'm not mistaken!
Hold the presses!!! DEPENDING on the stove, some are 6" and ALL the double door Fishers are 8"! I have 2 Mama Bears that are 6" but I have seen an 8". Rare though...
Ok then Weldr Dave. Handshake to you and I’m glad to hear from you. The insert has a 8” outlet flush with the top. Above that is the damper and my model is controlled by a small chain. The consensus is do away with the damper and control the stove with the draft controls. My chimney is straight up and down measures 13”x13” wide terra-cotter lined. It is exterior to the house and measures 25’ tall. If you think I need a 8” flue liner that is what I will do. 6” liner kit= $750 and 8”=$1,375 from my research. I don’t want any regrets down the road so that is why I value your opinion pertaining to this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks to all you guys for helping me figure out the best way to use my Fisher insert. After studying all your inputs I ordered A 8” stainless flue liner kit and 1/2”insulation kit. I know that is the legal way to go also I know that puppy will draw. Now I can get to work figuring out how to fabricate the baffle. Great site with Great people. Thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
From what I remember reading by Coaly, the "fireplace series" stove, Grandpa, Grandma and inserts came with an 8" flue to allow for the doors to be removed and a fireplace screen was set in place. The stovepipe damper was then used to slow the draft down just so no smoke rolled out the front. This was for ambience and drastically reduced heat output and increased wood consumption. IMHO if you are going to operate the insert with doors closed, the 6" straight up insulated chimney will work. With most stoves it's good practice to open draft or just crack the door for a moment before fully opening the door to let the draft flow increase.
Yes, and it won't hurt anything, But the big fire box and the 6" pipe doesn't allow (enough) flow at low temps and you "May" get a burb or back draft into the house. If it's started slow and allow heat to build before opening doors, it will flow. I have the Grandma here in my home and never open the doors, all the heat goes right up the chimney if doors are open. It's a pretty fire and it burns the wood up, but what's the sense? You have an (airtight) and might as well use it. When I light mine off, my door is cracked about an inch for a good draft then after my stack temp hits 400º, I shut the door and open draft knobs 1/2 turn. Set it and forget it. *Edit*. Even in the owners manuals they call them (Radiant heaters) even though they make a (Fireplace) edition/double door. It's for the people who want some ambiance and a good heater all in one. The very few times I used mine open, all I did was burn up wood fast and lose 1/2 my heat.
I got the screen but I intend to not use the store as a fireplace. It is a airtight heating machine that will supplement my heating and if we loose power it doubles as a cook stove. That’s why I searched for one. The new inserts are flush mounted and depend on a blower. Your can’t cook on them either. Fisher insert is built to last a lifetime. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey PA Mountian man. How do your knife the flue temperature. I assured you have a thermometer somewhere in the chimney but how does that work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I used to have a magnetic thermometer on the stovepipe. Now I go by feel. You want the exhaust out the chimney to be clean and over 250 degrees. All setups are different. After starting a fire with draft knobs open you will get to the point where there is little to no smoke. Then keep closing the draft knobs until you start to get smoke and then open back up a little. See WeldrDave post above. He knows exactly where to set and forget.
Mine just happen to be 1/2 turn, not all flue and stoves will be the same, you have to work and see the ideal "Sweet spot" for you stove as PA Mountain Man has said.
Fisher insert baffle. Hello to all. Handshake. I found a 1/4” piece of steel measuring 15”x20”. From what I found by searching in some of the older posts for a 8” pipe I need to place the baffle 2” from top of baffle to the bottom of the outlet. Also it sounds like the back of the baffle should be lowered so it’s not sitting parallel to the top. I plan on sitting the baffle on fire brick stacked on top of the existing brick to get the proper spacing. Do you guys concur with what I plan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
