Hi Guys - Looking to drop some big old dead standing oak (about 30" across) on a piece of heavily wooded property. I've only got a couple of narrow lanes to drop them into so they don't get hung up. Of course, the are not leaning the way I want and the tops of them are kinda lousy too. So, I'm gonna need some mechanical advantage. I was thinking about getting a 5:1 fiddle block set or a 3/4 ton ratchet rope puller (come-a-long). I'm leaning toward the ratchet (less expensive) and I think going to be more controllable than the fiddle block. I was going to get about 75-100 feet of samson 1/2 stable braid bull rope to attach to the trees and then attach the fiddle block or ratchet to the bull rope. Just curious if there are any arborists out there that have any advice for this or see what others are doing. If I had a tracked bobcat with a grapple, I wouldn't care, I'd just push the sucker over, but since I don't... Well, gotta do it the old fashion way. thanks!! J
Oaks tend to have large fairly horizontal branches. Falling them in a narrow opening without delimbing those branches will most likely result in damaging other trees as well. A 3/4 ton come along will probably be too small to persuade a 30" diameter tree that's leaning the wrong way. I think a combination of wedges and a larger come along with a rope that's longer than the tree is tall would be better. A 75' rope for a 30" Oak sounds kinda short. How tall are these trees? I've also seen people use a hydraulic jack that sits in a pocket cut into the tree. I've never tried that method myself though.
I’ve used a come along for pulling/tensioning a rope. I use 120’ and 200’ rope, but I also have sherrill big shot to put a slick line in first. The higher up you get, the better advantage you have.
Well, there were definitely going to be some wedges involved. I need to do the math on the tree to get the height (stupid trigonometry ) but I'm estimating 50-60 feet? 75' rope was just a guestimate to get started. Probably will end up with more, more is always better I've seen u-tube videos of the hydraulic jack thing... Not sure I want to play with that. When those things start moving, I want to out of there, not under the tree playing with the jack. Idea is to pretension the tree in the direction I want it to go. Just not so much that I barber chair the sucker. Make the face cut, back cut with wedges to keep it in place, then start winching on it. it sounds good in theory. For those who like watching people drop trees, check out this Youtube channel, "guilty of Treeson" I have no affiliation with these guys, but they have one of the greatest tree dropping tutorials I have seen.
To avoid barber chairing it you should bore cut it from the center leaving a few inches of hinge wood. Then go out
Some sound advice already ^^^^^^ Remember this tho. You don’t like the Jack because of proximity to tree. But with a come along you’ll be in the path of the falling tree if it goes right That and any dead branches that may come flying off on impact. Have t used too many come along for much. The cheap Chinese ones will fail on you when you most need it. I have a large quality commercial one but seldom use if for much. Sometimes I’ll Jack up a sit down if I’m too lazy to pull off the deck for cleaning How strong is that rope? Stretch? On a tree that size you can always do a come along and wedges. If it not working you could cut a Jack in later. Only other thing I’d say is trees that big don’t move fast. It takes a little time to bring them over the balance point. The top sways imperceptibly moving weight back and forth. Don’t be in a hurry cranking on a come along. Slow wins the race.
This is the rope I was going to use, and recommend for pulling/rigging. Low stretch.. Samson 1/2" Stable Braid Double Braid Bull Rope and the ratchet... Wyeth-Scott Ratchet Puller (3 Ton) with 35' AmSteel Rope pricey, but will last me forever. Wasn't going to go cheap on this. The big thing is to get these things to fall where they don't get hung up. I don't have the equipment to pull them down if they do. Maybe I should just go by a tracked bobcat with a grapple
Have you compared Bailey prices with Treestuff and other forestry equipment sellers? Treestuff and Sherrill occasionally have rope sales. I use the 9/16 stable braid for rigging and pulling. It holds up well if no one is nicking it with a saw.
If you add 2 snatch blocks you can double your mechanical advantage and change directions to pull perpendicular to the direction of fall. I use these: Driver Heavy Duty Recovery Winch Snatch Block 20,000 lb. Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JMOVSO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_z2YIvuXC2SLGO With this: Orange 3/8" x 100' (9.5mm x 30.5m) DynaTech 1278 Winch Rope with Forged Hook 20,680 lb Breaking Strength https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BO26ALU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_V22JON9V8t1Q4 And wedges with a bore cut. Here’s a recent drop next to my brother’s house (only 1 block in play)
thanks for all the help guys. I haven't compared prices of anything yet, still trying to figure out the gear, the proper knots to use and such. I'd really like to get into a class or two that shows how to do some of this stuff, but don't have a clue where I'd find something like that. ETA: Anyone have a climbing spur set-up? Just curious...
I use a More Power Puller quite often. I love that thing! You can use it for felling, dragging (short distances, you'll wear yourself out) moving large rocks etc... I've used mine for getting my saw unstuck in the woods also by pulling the tree sideways and reopening the kerf.
Arbormaster and North American Training Solutions did training all over the US prior to covid. I’ve done all the arbor master training and recommend it. If you have a Vermeer dealer, they occasionally had 1-2 day lawn chair training. I have spikes but I’m not sure what you mean by set up. They are basic old school spurs. Your local ag extension should be able to help you find training too. Knots, notches and felling, rigging and chainsaw safety are all important. Big trees can do big damage to people, property and activities.
