Englanderadd on furnace?

Hello fellas, I have been thinking about getting the add on furnace by Englander for my basement. 1150 sq ft ranch semi raised and drafty as heck with original windows doors insulation etc. So from the few reviews I’ve read, it sounds like this furnace, being capable of heating 3000 sqft, would be capable of heating this ranch sufficiently.
There is duct work for a central air conditioner that I will be removing; thus the hot air being dumped into basement from furnace will rise up into the rooms through the registers..
also I have noticed that the price of these units have gone down from 1299 to 999?
Do you think it’s because of the new epa regulation?

Any thoughts or information on this furnace or my situation much appreciated.

Or do you think the NC 30 would do the job? Basement is uninsulated.

Thanks

 

I do not understand why you would remove the existing ductwork?

If you were to get the wood furnace, just tie it into the existing ductwork for much better heat distribution and return air to furnace.

Sounds like you may be better off re-insulating and sealing the house; more efficient doors/windows.

 

Yeah, I'd nix the duct removal. But if you aren't going to use it, just get a NC30.
But heating from the basement with a stove (or furnace that is not hooked up to ducts) is a risky proposition...works for some, not for others.
Yes, chances are that they are discounting to clear them out by May...

 

The air conditioner plenum is opposite side of basement from flue. And, the duct work is meant simply for ac. Radiant baseboard heating. Ac is old and never used. Lots of shade trees and I thrive in the heat. May get a window unit if needed, would cool the whole house .

 

No. Heat will not rise up through those registers. Cold air will return through those registers.
Heat will rise up stair case and through an open door though.
I tried heating an un insulated block basement. I got it from 55 to 70 but that didn't leave enough BTU's to help warm the main level.

 

I thought this was your current setup?

 

7 years ago, yes.
I sectioned off the 16x18 part of the basement where the stove and steps are by building partitions out of furring strips and rmax foil backed insulation and insulated the exterior walls with rmax.
The room regularly gets to 85-90 now.
My old returns are open into the stove room from upstairs. The heat goes right up the steps and cold air returns through the old vents. I use a couple fans to move some air. Main level will get 68-72 depending on outside temps. I usually get a 1-3 degree temp swing per heat cycle. Usually two reloads per day.

 

What stove are using TurboDiesel and how many square feet?

 

tim117 I am thinking there is still a way to tie into the duct work. Just how large is the ductwork size (width X height) in the area where the wood furnace would be placed? Also, is the ductwork made of sheet metal?

(You may be able to use the ductwork if it is metal and if the trunkline has not reduced down to a smaller size by the time it gets to the wood furnace area.)

 

And proper CTC...

 

Oh yeah....the codes! All about the codes!!

Hopefully, the ductwork was installed per heating guidelines leaving proper air spaces between supply trucks and floor joists/etc.

And hopefully, there are return air trunklines also.

 

You don't agree with CTC specs on supply ducts?
And normal fossil fuel ducts are often closer than solid fuel heaters allow for...especially the first 6-10'

 

I'm not sure the 28-4000 is setup to be tied to return ducts...but I'm sure a good tin knocker could do it easily.
Hopefully the 4000 would be plenty big enough to heat the house without needing the return air ducts hooked up, but if not then it could make a big difference...there have been several threads on other sites here recently where the new wood furnace owner was disappointed with their results until some form or return air ducts were fabricated...the basement/foundation can sure suck up some BTU's!

 

I installed them on new construction commercial and residential for 20 years. Yes, I did follow CTC guidelines.

Some residential applications I worked on showed the results of not following these CTC guidelines in the form of charred wood! By the looks of it, you can only wonder how it didn't burst into flame. Same thing with masonry chimneys and stove pipe installs.

I thought you were making sport of the recent code police debacles here.....

 

Clearance to combustibles is a concern. Since the house has radiant baseboard heating and boiler. The duct work is strictly for the AC.

I don’t like the duct work. It makes me feel claustrophobic, like I’m going to hit my head on it. The basement would be more usable and enjoyable in my opinion without it.

So I understand that basement walls and floors eat a lot of btu’s, but we’re talking about putting a furnace capable of heating 3000 sq ft in an 1100 square foot basement..

I have read others are maintaining temperatures in the 80’s and 90’s in much bigger houses with this furnace. So I guess I have high hopes and am optimistic, however, am looking for any input from anyone that has this unit or heats from basement in a similar house.

 

tim117 too bad about your refusal to not utilize the ductwork.

I jumped onto that option (using ductwork; especially with a furnace) as you can find thread after thread on heating forums of how people need to move warm air/cold air from and to their wood stove to the rest of the house and whatever fix they take, it always seems to be OK or adequate for their needs.

Overheating the basement and hoping for the best should not be the only option to consider, but if your mind is made up, I wish you good luck!

 

My mind isn’t made up

 

Pics would help immensely as well as finding out just what CTC concerns you have with the ductwork? I still don't know if it is made from metal or not?

 

Is the supply trunkline attached to the ceiling joists without a 1" air gap on top of the ductwork?

Is there an associated return air trunkline?