Dolmar 7910 enough for milling?

I have been considering using an Alaskan mill and was wondering if a Dolmar 7910 is enough to use an alaskan mill. Right now my biggest saw is a Husky 555 so I am thinking that any milling is going to require a new saw.

 

What size and type of wood are you planning on cutting?

I'm new to the milling scene, and use an 066. I personally wouldn't want to go any smaller...I can tell you that much. It's slow enough with 90some odd cc's!

Shawn Curry mdavlee thistle Barcroftb mike bayerl thewoodlands

Those guys can give you better info than I can

 

I've never actually run a chainsaw mill. I've been lucky enough to have some great (and cheap) sawyers with band saw mills near by.

 

Oops. My fault. I knew you had a bunch of Lumber. Assumptions and all that.

 

No problem. I'm usually the one posting on the CSM about how much cheaper, faster and accurate it is to hire out a portable BSM than to CSM. That said, my local sawyers are retiring and I may be looking toward getting myself into CSM sooner than later.

 

The 7900/791o has a reputation for not being able to deliver enough oil on bars longer than 28", even when bucking. Ripping demands even more lubrication, so you might need to rig an auxiliary oiler.

I think it would do well for widths in the 18-24" range, but larger than that and you might get impatient.

 

Thanks Jon. I was thinking that I might need a bar as long as 30 inches and if the 7910 is not up to it that answers my question. I intended to get a Granberg 30 inch mill to work with on my hardwoods. I doubt my Husky 555 would do much in a milling situation.

 

FYI, a 30" Granberg mill has a max cut width of about 26 1/2" and typically uses a 36" bar, unless you get fancy with your mounting methods in which case 32" can suffice.

 

I use a 30" mill all the time. I even milled with stock 7300/7900. I use square filed chain and they are faster than semi chisel on a 90cc. With .063" bars they do ok. An auxiliary oiler takes care of any lack of oil problems. I usually use a 34" oregon reduced weight to max the mill out.

 

mdavlee makes it sound like the ideal lightweight milling set up... if you can square file.

 

I tried the semi chisel route. No better fit is and it was 15-25% faster. Big difference in fuel usage.

 

Hello to all...I'm a new member here.....I owned a Dolmar 7900 till recently witha 24" bar and Alaskan Saw Mill. I can say that this saw is a brute and a very good quality....I've attached some pics of a 20" Red Oak being sawed into live-edge planks. I can say that the saw went through the wood very easily with plenty of power to spare. I cannot attest to anything over that size however nor too the oiling capacity of a longer bar.....but I am confident that this is a very capable saw..........Twister

 

I like that setup in your photos that shows you milling "downhill" at a comfortable height. Helps a lot.

 

Yes it's always a good idea to get gravity to lend a helping hand when it can.....anything to take the pressure off the ole' bones! ....thanks for the post....Twister

 

I've been getting my hands, and everything else in the area, dirty milling slabs of various NE hardwoods with a 576AT Husqy w/32" bar in a 30" Granberg Alaskan, and a 6100 Dolmar with 24" bar in a Granberg MiniMill for edging/ripping. I've needed the max slabbing capability of ~27" with some bitternut hickory and sugar maple. Not so much yet on black locust.
I've been experimenting with chains, and found that what works best for me in both mills is full-skip semi-chisel with the depth gauges inclined a bit, on the aggressive side. Those chains make nice chips and leave a decent surface-finish. They're "happy" crosscutting too. Experimentation goes on, having WoodlandPro ripping chains and full-comp semi-chisel. One thing is an absolute necessity with milling chain- it must be as sharp as you can possibly make it, and you'll need to lightly file it at least once every couple of tankfuls. Beats heck out of killing bar/engine/sawyer. That's one plus for the full-skip, with 1/3 fewer cutters.
Then after all the drudgery, exertion and debris-cloud, when you see the slabs you remove, it really makes it worth it. My 576 manages nicely with the above, but I'm looking into bigger iron. Your 7900 will probably do well so long as you feed (carb adj.) and lube it well and keep its chains in optimum condition. Listen to what it tells you. If and when things get more serious, a 395 or 3120 may well be in your future, besides an aux. bar oiler.

 

I file every 2nd or 3rd cut. That may be 1-3 tanks depending on wood size. If I have to push more than laying my hand on the mill I sharpen.

 

I'm assuming this is at a downhill slope? That last huge maple I milled laid flat and I had to exert much forward pressure (it wasn't very fun).

 

Very little slope you still shouldn't have to push. Take down the rakers farther or more hook.

 

Self-propelled chain saw mill? Get it started, have some coffee and a couple bites of blueberry muffin, set up the second cut...