In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Ditch the 90 for a 45 pipe???? Englander 28-3500

Discussion in 'Non-EPA Woodstoves and Fireplaces' started by CHeath, Dec 31, 2017.

  1. CHeath

    CHeath

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    Well I am finally up and running. Yes it’s late but here in the south it usually don’t get that cold until later October but this year it just kept on. Heck, I was cutting grass the first week of November. Now here comes some cold stuff. Low of 10 most of the week. Now I know that will get a chuckle from you northern and extreme northern guys but hey, I’m COLD LOL.

    So, my stove is running good, perhaps the best ever since I have the most seasoned wood I ever had. You know when you load the wheelbarrow full and it’s not heavy that it’s dry. Most of it is 9%.

    I am running a 6 inch single wall out of the stove straight up 24” into a 90* elbow and then through 24 more inches into my thimble in the basement of my 2200 sq foot home. Would it be better to spring for more pipe to make it a 45? I’ve read a few threads but have not come to much of a conclusion. Thanks!
     

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  2. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Double 45° could be less drag....:yes:
     
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  3. CHeath

    CHeath

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    Haha what’s up man?! How’s the weather on top of the mountain? Supposed to cool down a bit tomorrow night. I have the basement loaded with some dry maple. I’m kinda anxious to see how it will do. I haven’t stacked it full yet rather just trying to get it burned in. Still stinks a little.
     
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  4. billb3

    billb3

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    If you have a short chimney a 90 degree bend is a constraint on draft.
    Can be tough to get flow going in warmer weather.
    If you have a tall chimney that same 90 becomes a comparatively small constraint or loss.
    Simple/or: a tall chimney has enough suction to overcome the constraint.
     
  5. LodgedTree

    LodgedTree

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    I have about the same set up and I burn a lot of coal which is more draft sensitive than wood, and it still works.

    I am not switching to (2) 45 degree bends rather than a 90 degree elbow. For me the stove would look silly and mine is located in my living room not the basement so looks matters at my place. Besides the extra cost, I don't think it would make much of a difference anyway.

    The 6 inch size is where you are losing your draft. Volume wise, a 6 inch pipe is a LOT less than 7" and incredibly low over that of 8:. The bigger the pipe, the better the draft.

    Of course height helps as we all know, but I assume your stove pipe is tall enough and above 2 feet of any obstruction within 20 feet of the top of the chimney.

    I reread your post a few times, but it sounds like your stove pipe runs out to the outside of your home, then up along the outside wall? If this is so, what happens next has more to do with draft then elbows and diameter, and that is if it is a single wall stove pipe, double wall (better), triple wall (better still), or masonry (best). That is because as your smoke travels upwards, if it is single wall, the outside air chills the internal smoke and a person loses draft. A masonary chimney retains the heat and promotes draft, where as triple wall pipe is better insulated then double wall, but double wall is better than single wall, the absolute worst since it is so directly affected by cold and wind!

    If your thimble goes into an internal masonry chimney, then the last paragraph can be disregarded.
     
  6. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    :shiver::shiver::shiver::shiver:
     
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  7. jason ankerbrand

    jason ankerbrand

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    New to the forum here. I’ve been burning wood for two years in a small insert. I just got a used Englander 28-3500 like pictured in the original post. Sorry to hijack an old post, but I was wondering if you have had any trouble with using flexible duct that close to the unit? Thanks for any thoughts, CHeath or others.