Critique my setup.....

I put my Osburn in tonight and changed my setup a bit. The stove pipe is single wall. The old setup came out of my old stove in the back, made a 90* turn up 2 feet, then made another 90* turn to go about 3-4 feet horizontal, through the wall and up the chimney.

Because this stove comes out the top I made the stove pipe diagonal before going through the wall as seen in pics below. My question is, is this setup okay?

My only concern is at the top where it exits through the wall. Would I be better to come straight up from the stove and make one 90* bend and out the wall for more clearance?

 

I've read here that the 45° angles are better for draft, so you should be fine.

To be honest, the only thing that looks funky/funny is how far out from the wall the stove is.
But, I don't know what clearances that stove needs.

And if you can shift the stove about 3-4 inches to the left (as viewed in the picture) then the chimney should be straight as well.

 

It is well above the clearances required from the walls. I noticed it needs to go left a bit as well but it's getting late so that will wait for another day.

 

Good points Well Seasoned! If the chimney is tall enough then the straight up and a 90 would look better. (Just my $.02)

 

This ^.
Does your chimney draft well, or were you having some issues that you wanted to fix?

 

Thanks all for the input...
The top bend into the thimble is about 5" from the wall. My mom said when they built the house they used some sort of fire resistant drywall but I think I'll go with a straight up and out horizontally setup. I feel better about having more clearance there.

The draft was always pretty good for the most part except on days where the air was real heavy. It could be a little weak on a cold start then. I'm anxious to see how the new ss liner helps. I held a piece of TP to the pipe before connecting last night and it was pulling very well. That was with outside temps in the 50s and rain moving in.

 

Oops forgot to mention the chimney is 16'6" tall from where it exits the basement to the top.

 

How tall (approx.) from the stove height to the top? It will definitely draft better with a liner in it...

 

I'm not entirely sure. I will have to measure how much stove pipe I have and get back to you on that one....

 

I think he was asking about height from stovetop to thimble center.

 

No, total height...from the stove top to the chimney top...that's the part that counts as far as how much draft you'll have. Some manufacturers say you can measure from the bottom of the stove to the chimney top.
And if that chimney goes to the basement, make sure it is sealed well down there (cleanout door, etc.)

 

I have just under 7' of stove pipe plus thimble until the 16'6" of straight up chimney with the 90* setup (pic below). The horizontal is slanted upward quite a bit cause I've read here that is better than flat. I have a few bricks I could set the stove on to flatten it out if needed.

 

The upward slant on the horizontal pipe is good...just make sure everything is connected well at each end.
Just FYI, the total chimney height is measured in vertical only...and any 90's count against you...general rule of thumb is that for each 90 it has the same affect as taking 3' off the total height...and the less horizontal pipe the better.
Two 45's still count as one 90, but most/many agree that the 45's will draft a little better. The big difference with the setup you started out with here is less horizontal run.

As mentioned earlier, you may very well need some shielding on the wall and ceiling there...almost looks like the wall paper above the thimble is slightly darkened like maybe its gotten a little warm...

 

Small load of cherry to test it out this morning. One thing I noticed and maybe this is normal (first experience with epa certified stove), when the secondary flames start it really seems to shoot the STT up in a hurry. It was cruising at around 550* with the air closed to about 20-25%. When the secondaries really took off the STT shot to about 650-675*. At that point I closed the air the whole way down and now its steady at that temp with a flue temp of 300* and nice "lazy" secondaries.

 

You're doing it right!
With an EPA stove, once the firebox is up to temp, and the secondary burn can be maintained, you'll notice that if you have good dry wood, when you close the air down the stove pipe temp will drop and the STT will go up, to a point anyways. If you leave the air open too much for too long, both the STT and the pipe temp will be high (wasting heat)

Oh, and maybe they are there already, but don't forget to install 3 screws in each stove pipe joint...if you ever have a "puff back" you'll understand why they are needed...its an experience!

 

Thanks for the advice. I did not put them in. I will pick some up tomorrow.

 

I personally like to use stainless screws, but anything is better than nothing

 

Sorry to keep posting questions but there is not a lot going on here today (got another 1 1/2" of rain and no sign of quitting) and like I said I'm learning this whole process.

My question is, now that I'm almost 5 hours in to the burn cycle (put in 3 splits of cherry after initial start up) do you have to worry about creosote buildup during the coaling stage of burning? I've had the air shut down since about noon to see how long the coals would last. The STT has dropped to just under 400* at this point which says that is creosote territory on the thermometer.

Just picking the collective brains here.....

 

Nope, by the time the fire progresses to the coal stage the creosote causing components are gone...assuming you have red hot coals and not black smoldering chunks (from trying to "burn" wet wood, which judging from that earlier pic, you do not have)
So if you do not need the extra heat, leave the air turned down so as to keep the firebox warm longer.
Now in January you may need to open the air up more at this stage due to needing to burn the coals down faster to make room for the next load ASAP