That's can be welded with nickel rod...best to have an experienced welder do it...needs to be preheated and then cooled back down properly afterwards. Dunno if I've ever heard of a door cracking on a Fisher...
That door likely had a hairline crack in it after it was cast and slipped through QC...was missed. It could happen, but I highly doubt that door cracked from use. It has likely expanded over decades. It will need drilled, pre-heated to dang near orange, then cooled slowly...as in insulated with ash or similar and taking half of a day or a full day to cool...as slow as possible. As someone stated it can be welded...get to that in a moment...but it needs drilled near the end of crack to stop it. You will want to find someone with square cast welding rod...no kidding. It cost nearly $80 lb., and most people will not buy it and very few even know about it. If you want it fixed and fixed right, then send it to an antique stove dealer on the east coast that is familiar with the welding rods I’m talking about and are very experienced at welding on antique parts from cast iron stoves 100 plus years old. You can research and ask questions about what I’m telling you over on the “Coalpail forum”. If you use another type welding rod that most people “think” they can use or get by with, it will hold, but will likely crack again beside the weld. I’ve given you a primer to research the correct information and where to find that information...rest is up to you. Look for the name “Wilson” on that forum...he’s an antique stove restored on the east coast...R.I. I believe is his location.
Welded the cast grates in my Yukon wood/coal/ oil furnace back in 2012 with regular ole 7018 rod...just had em out recently and still good...
What looks to have started as a "flaw" because of the rounded edges on the very edge has evolved into a true crack. I've welded "many" cast pump housings over the years but the heat is mostly constant on them. I've seen three now! Normally you won't and that may have been so small at one time, it got over looked. There is a couple ways of attack here of course Ni cast rod, Drill, pre heat to 650º then post heat slow or oven if possible. Or, what I would consider is Brazing, drill end pre heat slow, braze then post heat with asbestos blankets if you have them. That may be a little "cleaner looking" and not so obvious for the repair. Exactly! A lot depends on the quality of the casting and mixture of materials in it when casted. I've had some cast's just crumble after repair. That's a dam shame!!! Me, I would "V" it out and try a 3/32 root pass both sides, Ni ca rod and see how it looks. Or Brazing will work but be very slow and don't let it cool quick. The next option is Finding another door... or Doors... Even Coaly would have a tough time getting them but maybe not impossible, but I'm sure $$$$$. He may have some contacts who have contacts
That crack also could have started in the opening and closing stages due to where it's at right at the sun burst edge. Banging the doors hard or it getting slammed may have triggered the crack. Regardless, its a dam shame!
No offense meant to anyone here... Give Wilson a chance to contact you. May take a little time. In the mean time, send jubileejerry a pm and pick his brain about the welding rod I told you about. As others have said, depending on the cast quality you may get by with another type rod. What then if you don’t get by? At the least contact one or both of these guys. I am sure they can lead you to a few other antique restorers that told them about the rods and where to get them...which I don’t even know where they get them. You never know they may take a look at what you’re needing welded and may give you the same advice as others here. In that case you haven’t lost anything. Lots of people can and have welded cast iron. Only a handful weld cast on a regular basis on 100 year old stoves with repeated success, cast that is constantly heated and cooled from wood/coal fires...and their repairs remain permanent. All I can say is there’s a reason why these guys do what they do, and why they’re so respected for their work. As with people that restore anything...they’re dang good at what they do.
So true. My cast experience is "Get it back running". 99% pump housings. I've done some Older Motorcycle castings on casings, "aluminum". Some worked, some didn't. That "will" be a touchy one for sure. The doors of the Fishers are very thick!
You can tell me to go pound sand instead of answering my question, but enquiring minds want to know what that kind of repair costs. I would like to see the inside of the door repair also if you don't mind. I can't imagine shipping being cheap for a hunk of cast like that! Plus the worry someone will mishandle it and cause more damage.
The weld repair was $60, shipping was around $75 each way, I'll get an inside pic today. The only dumb question are the one's we don't ask.
He welded that up with NiCi. Typical. Should be fine, just don't get it "real hot"! It will crack again. Go easy shutting the doors also, try not to slam it on accident...
When you asked Wilson about repairing your door did you inquire of him about the cast rod I told you about and what did he say? Did he say how he fixed this, what with, and what did he say, if anything, if the repair would crack again? I’m hoping my suggestion didn’t cost you an extra $150 for nothing. If he didn’t use those square cast rods I told you about I’ll be wishing I’d recommended another guy that would have fixed with them. I would think Wilson would have a good explanation though. I’d also think he’d at least give you an idea if the repair would last, or not, etc.
I didn't mention rod type when I spoke with Wilson, I just figured he is the subject matter expert. He did say the repair would be no problem so.......
I am sure if there’s a problem he will take care of you, so I wouldn’t worry too much about that. I’d just like to know what his process was though. Did you ask him about the process, or did he even give you any details before taking the job or after? Just wondering....
