Check my clearances?

My old wood stove in the shop.
Would you guys call this safe enough?





It is 9 inches from the rear of the stove to the tin.
The tin is spaced 2” from the wall behind.
The concrete stem wall is 32” tall.
The stove is 32” tall.
It is 9” from the side of the stove to the wall.
On a diagonal, it is 16” from the wall corner to the nearest point of the store. Same for opposite size to edge of tin.

Outside is duravent triple wall through a duravent thimble through the wall kit. The rough opening was 14 1/2” for the thimble.


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I believe if you don't have the clearance info from the manual/manufacturer, you are supposed to use default values of 36" from combustibles.
Air gaps reduce those numbers by 1/3 if I remember correctly.
Use an IR gun on the wall at various points to get at least somewhat accurate temps.
Someone with better info might pop in here.

 

Nope not enough clearance even if that tin was a proper ventilated heatsheild which it isn't. I see wood I contact with it and there is no gap allowing air in at the bottom. If the sheilds are fixed you can be 12" from protected combustibles. You also don't have anywhere near 36" measured diagonally from the stove to the unprotected wall.

 

Thanks. Here’s where I will plead my case.

The concrete stem wall is the same height as the stove.

The ridges in the tin do allow air movement from bottom to top.

If I pulled the stove front over slightly to give that 12” would that be satisfactory?

36” seems excessive. But I am interested in doing it “right”.
Thank you for the points for me to work toward.


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No the tin is not properly ventilated. It needs to be spaced 1" off the wall using with non combustibles spacers with 1" air gap top and bottom to allow air flow. You need that space even over the block so you have proper airflow behind it when you get to the top plate.

 

Remember if those tin protectors are held on by nails, Heat will transfer though the nails into the wood and that would constantly exposed to high temp will lower its combustion point. So what you might get away with now may combust later on at same heat as it is getting now. Should you add a second layer of tin with an air space between the two, separated by non combustibles (I used the ceramic knobs you use to see with old wiring) use a screw and nut that connects each knob to the two tin shields without contacting wood you will greatly reduce your need for large distances. some of the same principals as zero clearance fireplaces or triple wall chimney. For me, much to close now. I can almost smell the smoke.

 

Okay, I’ll work on spacing that out 1” with washers. That’s easy enough.


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Single wall pipe gets pretty dang hot too and it's even closer than the stove.
Look up pyrolysis.

 

This is an excellent fix! I’ll look at that also.


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I usually just use copper pipe unions they are pretty cheap and readily available. You also need to extend the sheilds further so anything within 36" is protected

 

It's typical to use lengths of 1/2 or so copper pipe, nice and easy compared to washers.

Did you say this is in a workshop, not connected to a house? big difference if somebody is going to be sleeping in anything attached to it or not.

There is a lot of buffer in the older clearances so don't get too crazy, you are pretty good as is. Do the standoffs and maybe a few more inches clearance if you can. No wood in contact with the back side of the metal.

 

Get a piece of el-cheapo EMT...cut into 1" pieces, bam, spacers. Heck, many of us have a piece laying around...

 

No he really isn't pretty good at all the way it is. That metal is touching wood 9" from the stove.

 

Only thing I’ll add is another fairly simple and fairly cheap way to space the metal is with steel studs. At least I think that’s acceptable. I helped a friend use 2” studs screwed to the wall, and then the metal was fastened to the studs with a 1/2” gap at the bottom for air. Temp gun showed huge difference.

But also should mention that looks nice!


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Yeah I use them pretty often. Especially when building a shield I will be putting stone veneer on

 

Thanks everyone for the tips.
The tin is held on by roof screws so I can remove them, add spacers , and then reinstall with longer screws.

I do have some metal EMT that I can cut up for spacers.

The shop is a stand-alone detached with no living quarters within 50 ft of it.

I’ll go by the lumber yard and pick up some more metal to extend each side on the wall.


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I cut 1 1/2” pieces of conduit with my porta band and remounted the tin. The extra pieces I have for extending the sides are now under 2 ft of snow but the wood and walls are cool to the touch during the test fire. An added bonus is being able to stick my arm behind the tin to feel the walls on test checking.

I’m not going to leave the fire alone by itself overnight till I get the rest of the tin in place per code though anyway.

Thanks for all the corrective tips.
This is nice At 20 degrees outside!



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You guys dont even want to see mine. It's an old barrel kit stove with 4' wide sheet metal behind it. The bottom of the sheet metal has a 1" air gap. The exhaust pipe is triple walled that goes through a thimble flange directly above in the roof. This is an outbuilding, 100' from the nearest dwelling. The worst loss would be my chainsaws. Maybe I'll move them to the other barn. The sheet metal directly behind the stove is 300˚ F and the sheet metal on the front of the air gap just above the stove is 150˚ F. The sheet metal follows the exhaust up the wall to where the triple layer begins (8')