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Alaskan Mill Question

Discussion in 'The Sawyer Room' started by Jekyl, Dec 9, 2020.

  1. Jekyl

    Jekyl

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    Hello! I am considering milling some of my own trees. I have two saws. Both are a Stihl product. The largest of the two saws is the Stihl MS 361. It has a 20 inch bar. The power head is 58.99 CC. Would this saw be large enough? It seems most folks have a larger saw for this hobby. I do not have too many large trees on my property. I just cut down an Ash tree that was killed off by the Ash Borer, and the tree measured about 19 inches at the base, and it is probably one of the larger trees I have. I probably have six Ash trees that size. I was going to burn them in the stove, but some Ash boards might be nice to have.

    Thanks Folks
     
  2. Chaz

    Chaz

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    Welcome aboard Jekyl
    :cheers:

    No first hand knowledge, but you are correct that most advise a higher CC engine for milling.

    I believe skip chain and thin bar oil are also advised. If I remember correctly, a bit more 2 stroke oil is also advised, but you should wait for better advice than I can offer.
     
  3. Chaz

    Chaz

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  4. huskihl

    huskihl

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    361 might mill 6-8” wide boards ok. I would run a heavier oil ratio though and tune it a bit rich. Keep the chain as sharp as possible and go slow
     
  5. Jekyl

    Jekyl

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    Thanks for the information! I am going to look into this a little more. My wife thinks it is a neat idea as well. This might be an open door for a new saw. Best regards!
     
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  6. Armbru84

    Armbru84

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    I am with Huskil. Go 32:1 ish and go slow. If you need a bigger saw or bars I can help out.
     
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  7. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    If you want to work with the 361, probably not a good idea to use a bar any longer than about 25” to ensure enough oil. I don’t recommend the mini mill as it doesn’t do a good job of maintaining the distance between the bar and the guide consistently. You end up with boards thicker on one side than the other.. having the mill attached at both ends of the bar is better., you could probably get a 24”-30” mill to start with. Keep in mind that you don’t want to clamp down over the nose sprocket and the dogs will limit how close to the saw you can mount the mill. So about 2” less than that measurement is the max width log you can mill. I’m by no means anywhere near as experienced as some on here, but I’m learning. Here is a hickory log I was messing around with with my ms290 and a mini mill. This was also with regular Stihl RS3 chain filed at 30 degrees IIRC.
    249518B0-2A95-487A-B169-A7BE5E90A71F.jpeg
    I have since moved up to a 661 with a 36” mill.


    90649C4E-987A-403D-9EC0-75522B3925F6.jpeg
     
  8. amateur cutter

    amateur cutter

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    Hahahaha, that's an understatement! Good advice here for sure. More mix & richer tune for sure. You might consider a second oiler for the tip end of the bar too, simple set up with a bottle & hose with a valve works well. Just drip some oil on the other end. 10 degree milling chain is a bit easier on the saw as well as a smoother cut.
     
  9. Husky Man

    Husky Man

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    I am pretty sure that stuckinthemuck was referring to the Small Log Mill, not the Mini Mill.

    The small log mill from Granberg, only clamps at the thrust end, is rated for bars up to 24” IIRC, and is recommended for saws of 60cc and larger.

    Granberg’s “Mini Mill “ G555, has been renamed, more appropriately, the Edging Mill, but there is very likely quite a few older, even new, ones out there in the Mini Mill packaging. The Mini Mill is used to square up one or both sides of the log, if you are producing dimensional lumber, rather than slabs with “Live Edges “

    With the Mills that clamp the bar at each end, like the Granberg G778’s, the mill’s “Listed Size” is the length of the mill rails, NOT the length of bar needed for the mill, or the maximum capacity of the mill. You will typically need about 6” more bar than the mill’s listed size, and maximum width between the clamp inside faces is generally about 2.5” less than the listed size of the mill, for example, my Granberg G778-36 measures 33.5” between the clamp faces at it’s maximum settings, and needs about a 42” bar to utilize the mill at it’s maximum capacity

    If you are going to use your saw with a 20” bar on it, you may want to try the Granberg Small log Mill, a double clamp mill like the G778-24, is really going to burn a lot of bar length, and leave you needing to use an edging mill, like the Granberg G555 to square the sides of Log, which will narrow it down so that you can mill your lumber in a width that will fit through the mill with that short of a bar. Squaring the sides will make your lumber cuts narrower, which will reduce the load/strain on your powerhead. A full skip chain will also make life easier on your powerhead

    There is a lot more to learn, but that’s a good start on information overload



    Doug
     
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  10. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    Yep I agree with huskihl also.

    I use a 83 cc saw when milling boards that wide. I also use square ground chain as oppose to round ground. I realize not everyone has square ground and you can get by without it. Just go slow and take your time and like others have said keep that chain as sharp as you can. Bigger saws and sharper chains are just faster and cutting across the end grain is not easy on a saw.

    If I mill even bigger boards I have a 99cc saw for that. Just to give you an idea of what people who mill with saws use.
     
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  11. Jekyl

    Jekyl

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    Well I can see there is quite a lot more involved than I imagined. Sounds like it would be best to consider a bigger saw. Keep the 361 for firewood. The other fact I am not aware of is this squared vs. round sharpened chain. To be honest I don’t sharpen mine. Typically I take them to a shop. Retired now so I have time on my hands so perhaps I can learn how. Thanks for all the advice. I’ll keep you posted especially if I grab a new saw.
     
  12. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    There is a thread under Chainsaws and power equipment at the top that talks about square filing. There are also square grinders too. There should be some pictures in there to give you an idea of what a square ground chain is.
     
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  13. JCMC

    JCMC

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    Welcome to FHC Jekyl. I used the Small log mill w/ 20"bar on a L65 Husqvarna it worked ok as long as you go slow. I later purchased my 2100CD it cut much quicker but I found that the slower I go the better the boards I have not used it in quite some time. where in NY are you?
     
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  14. JB Sawman

    JB Sawman

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  15. Jekyl

    Jekyl

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    I live in Western NY. Not too far from Buffalo.
     
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  16. Jekyl

    Jekyl

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    Did you use a square or round sharpened chain?
     
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  17. JCMC

    JCMC

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    The chain I was using was a ripping chain from Granberg. It worked pretty well been quite a while since I used it. It is a lot of work.
     
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  18. JB Sawman

    JB Sawman

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    Sorry Jekyl My reply got messed up the other day New Computer operator issues I have done a lot of milling and I have a lot of customers who do it Biggest thing is run 25:1 mix ,sharp chains ,clean air filter often sawdust is a lot of fines and its slow process just take your time JB
     
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  19. Jekyl

    Jekyl

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    Hello JB

    No worries at all. I have received quite a few responses, and did find that my questions has been approached many other times here. So I have found some very enlightening information. Not sure what I want to do now. Seems the MS 362 might be on the light side for the Alaskan saw mill concept. Doable but realistically on the light side. I was also considering that if I were to buy another saw that is more fitting, then the mill itself with all the accessories, and any other unforeseen necessary items, I may be at a price point where a different sawmill concept all together may be better off. Like a portable bandsaw design. Well, those are just my thoughts, and where I am at with the idea. So in the mean time I cut up my ash tree logs into firewood. Oh well. If I pull the trigger on something I'll comment on it.
     
  20. JB Sawman

    JB Sawman

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    I know since buying my bandsaw 6 years ago I only use the chainsaw mill to half or quarter logs to saw on the bandsaw but all sawing is a lot of work its just the bandsaw is quicker JB
     
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