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10 Year old XXV wouldn't feed

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by gbreda, Jan 10, 2021.

?

Vac Switch / Main Board / Both

Poll closed Jan 24, 2021.
  1. Vac Switch

    50.0%
  2. Main Board

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  3. Both

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. Something else

    50.0%
  1. gbreda

    gbreda

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    My better half's XXV stopped working last week. Ran out of pellets then would not feed after refill.

    It would feed pellets in Test Mode but in Stove or Room Temp would get only combustion light with motor coming on. No feed or ignitor.

    My thought went to vacuum related as it was a sudden issue

    Lid gasket good-she had this happen years ago when a pellet was stuck in the gasket
    Door gasket good
    Fines Box was full but now good
    Igniter area vacuumed and good
    ESP cleaned

    She did everything except venting as she didnt have time. As I was going by there today I told her I would check things out.

    Today I confirmed and rechecked everything including the vac sensor in the hopper and made sure the tube to the vac switch was not plugged.
    **** NOTE: DONT unscrew the fitting in the hopper of an XXV is a BEATCH to get the fitting back in place :hair::headbang:

    Pulled the comb motor and it was clean and clear there

    Went outside and checked that exhaust air was coming out the vent with the comb motor running-it was pushing air so it wasnt plugged. It is horizontal thru a gambrel roof so its a PITA to clean. Didn't want to pull it apart for no reason.

    Back inside I pulled the OAK tube and saw that the flapper opens with comb motor so there is vacuum.

    No I am down to vac switch or main board as it has had some shutdown issue last few years where it would not shut down all the time. It would just stay in maint burn.

    Tapped vac switch. Still the same.
    Tapped it again and it started up-feed and ignitor. YAY !!
    Shut it off, tapped again-nothing BOOO
    Tried again and it started. This time left it running.

    Heres the question.
    Vac switch or main board that has been wonky for a few years. OR BOTH?

    What Say You?
     
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  2. gbreda

    gbreda

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    BTW, I am leaning towards replacing vac switch and having a main board on hand. Since both our stoves use the same board and they are both 10 plus years old, we should have one on hand anyway.
     
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  3. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Cheapest first which is vacuum switch.
     
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  4. bogieb

    bogieb

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    What he said.
     
  5. gbreda

    gbreda

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    Very true and if it wasnt for shutdown issues last few years I wouldnt even be considering the board.

    This location has a lot of power issues and the stove has run on generators multiple times over the years.
     
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  6. don2222

    don2222

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    I would say vacuum switch.
    If you have the black ESP probe it must read approx 500,000 ohms. I had a stove that it read 24k ohms and the stove would not start, most likely it is the vac switch or vac hose is blocked.
     
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  7. gbreda

    gbreda

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    Thank Don. I checked the hose and it is clear.
     
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  8. gbreda

    gbreda

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    The stove ran out of pellets Sunday night and started right up again Monday morning.

    Ordering vac switch to have on hand if it starts acting up again.
     
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  9. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather

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    well, you can test the vac switch......suck on the hose and put a continuity meter on the leads....should get continuity when you suck on the hose.
    Check the draft in the firebox AND at the switch (you'll need a airline tee to do this).....the draft will be a bit less at the switch, but shouldn't be so much that the switch wont actuate. Also, would re-route that vac line to the feeder weldment....those old intake in the hoppers were a pain, because the screen would plug up.
    Draft readings would be key here.
     
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  10. gbreda

    gbreda

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    Thanks LW

    Can the vac switch "stick" Its apparently working now but wondering if tapping it freed something. I did clean the screen when I removed it from the hopper but it still wouldnt feed after that. That was actually the first thing I tried as I was hoping 10 years of pellet dust may have plugged it.

    Also, how would the vac line connect to the feeder weldment?
     
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  11. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather

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    well, there's a diaphragm in the switch, which is a moving part, so yea, sure, it could happen (though very rare!...this is why its nice to check the draft there)......if thats the case, gonna happen again, replace switch. As for the feeder weldment, the tube on modern units goes from the switch to an area below the slide plate on the left hand side (viewing from the rear) of the feeder weldment. There's a brass barb/threaded 90 fitting on modern units, but before that, we were drilling the weldment and RTVing the tubing to hold them in place......this was maybe 10 years ago? Most of those stoves are still running today.
    Yea, that hopper sensor was problematic to say the least......they didnt do that for much longer than a year, and maybe less.
     
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  12. gbreda

    gbreda

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    This isnt the same fix for the sticky feed plate / gummy stove right? I thought both our stoves had that update but we both have vac ports in the hopper which I am really hoping is separate fix.

    Guess I might need to get a magnahelic for the vac test

    Would this one do as I am not in need of these very often. If not, any suggestions?

    Amazon.com: Digital Handheld Manometer HVAC Air Vacuum/Gas Differential Pressure Gauge Meter Tester 11 Units with Backlight, ±13.78kPa ±2PSI, 1-2 Pipes Ventilation Air Condition System Measurement: Industrial & Scientific
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
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  13. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather

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    That manometer looks fine.

    Easy enough to tell if he update was done.....just look at he back of the feeder weldment. If theres a tube going from near the air intake to the other side of the weldment, its there. I would still move that dang hopper intake though....they are problematic.
     
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