Oh, remorseful don't mean I'm givin' up. I have a tow strap and an older Jeep. That wall ain't got a snowball's chance in heck.
Good morning Mistah Patience. Long day yesterday. Drywall's off (LOVE the mess that creates.......not) and I'm cogitatin' on my next move. I need to know the actual door we'll be putting in before I can reframe, so that's on hold, but should know soon-ish. I have another reframe job in the laundry room that needs the same treatment. The old DV heater has to come out too. That new door will provide much easier access to the back yard, and a straight shot to the garden. Might start work on figguring out that today. Might not. I do however, see more in my immediate future.
papadave I always used double 2 x8 was good for 5 feet and double 2 x 10 was good for 6 foot .. those I even add plywood in between and glue and screw.. I have been accused of over building
You are not the only one. campinspecter has a tendency to build really strong projects when he gets going.
depending on the soffit, build the temp wall outside, build the new wall lying on the floor in the room, nice flat surface stand wall up, done. Build wall 1/2" short and use OSB to fill gap or build wall correct height, jack up temp wall 1/2" stand wall,, let down. All this typing I could of come over and been done already.
Yep. Just as in the stove room, there's no plywood in the header. If I use a 2X10, it may end up all the way up to the plate. That'll mess up the wiring, as the outlet on the l/h side feeds 4 more outlets on the other side of the opening. Still cogitatin'.
Build a hollow header, a strip of plywood on the top and bottom as spacers leaving a void in the middle to slide wire through. On that span 2x10's are overkill.
papadave what is opening width? ironpony (who is a widely accepted a intelligent guy) says 2 by 10 overkill ? for an weight bearing eaves end wall on 6 foot span? IME that's standard or minimum code here.. snow loads? the chase in header is way to go though
Rule of thumb, here in Ohio, 1" of header for each 1' of span. I would always use 2x12 tight against the top plate myself, wall height allowing, eliminates installing cripples and the guys can build all the headers the same, KISS. Might be slightly more with your snow loading. Also using southern yellow pine for loading, not white wood.
Just looked it up, southern yellow pine, supporting roof load framed 16" on center on a 6' span is one 2x8. If roof framing is 24" on center one 2x10. even going up to a 70 psf snow load it is only one 2x12 the main reason on small headers for doubling is to maintain the 3 1/2 spacing to support drywall, trim, door /window jambs.
Papa, also remember when you layout the wall locate the studs under the roof rafters to carry load, a lot of people miss this.
Oh man, the rafters are a WHOLE NOTHER issue. A couple are 24" OC, but some are more. I'll have to figure out where they are . Here's another couple pics of the wall after I finished pulling most of the drywall. Should I put in a drywall nailer at the top plate between studs? Pretty sure we'll stick with the 6' slider. Good idea on the header chase. What's the absolute minimum header height for a "standard" patio door? If 82", the largest header I can get in there will be 8.5" So, 2X10 ripped down, or just go with a 2X8 and be happy? Ceiling height is 92".
OK that explains it I build headers out of white wood.. cheaper here to use lvl than yellow pine wood.. most dimensional comes from canada.. they don't have southern anything..
I have seen "standard" patio doors range from 79"s to 82"s frame size, plus 1/2" for rough opening. I would cut the header to fit to avoid tiny cripples above the header. top plate should be doubled, if on concrete bottom plate has to be pressure treated. if you cannot find the roof rafters it is not critical.
