So trying to replace the window gasket on my stove has proven to be quite a pita project, but aren't all the ones you think are going to take 10 minutes? I could not get the screws out to save my life, 3 days of pb blaster, heat, hammers, nothing would move them. Out comes the drill. Drill them out and replace with slightly larger self tappers, no problem! Problem: I could not drill the screws out straight and ended up making them larger than I wanted and sort of crooked. I fudge up some larger sheet metal screws and a bunch of washers and get them secured in there, bingo... Or so I thought. Washers push screws out too far and won't close!!! I'm at the point where I'm just going to start over and try and fill the holes with some sort of epoxy and put smaller screws in. Anyone have good recommendation on something to use that cures hard enough to screw into and will also withstand the heat? Thanks all.
Can you use helicoils? You can buy them at most auto parts stores. You would then use machine screws instead of self tapping. Pop rivets? Otherwise, maybe (maybe) JBWeld will hold for a while.
Is it a cast door? Probably, I guess.... Can you have the holes fill-welded, drill/tapped for coarse thread?
That's a possibility I've thought of. Just not sure if the spacing will be right to hold the glass in there with the correct pressure. It may work, I think I just got so focused on getting them back in I was blinded by other possibilities, hate when that happens!
I'm right there with you on the focus. Does your glass require a gasket between it and the hold down steel which you've attempted to re-bolt?
Having said that, if there is enough material thickness, which is doubtful, I would do helicoils and machine screws first.
Whatever you do (excluding epoxy), consider using a little high temperature antisieze on the threads on installation. It will make removal a less taxing event next time.
I like repositioning the screws as a first choice, and helicoils second. Epoxy wouldn't last half an hour after firing up the stove.
How much heat can jbweld withstand? ETA, I just ran through this thread again and saw bushpilot already suggested it. Not sure how hot our engines ran but WWW used jbweld a few times on our old Blazer trucks. And. It held.
There's also the question of what kind of failure they expect at a given temperature. It's not going to retain normal mechanical properties right up to 499F and then turn into peanut butter at 500F. Chances are it will begin to weaken at considerably lower temperatures.
Actually, they say it can handle 600 briefly, and somewhere else they say up to 550. So I believe at 500 it can be expected to retain most of its properties. Regardless, not quite what I would want for this repair.
How much does a new door cost? I'm sure you want to save money and try to fix it. I would too. I just know that sometimes the frustration isn't worth the little bit of money saved. Another thought would be pull it off and take it to a local machine shop. They could probably fix it with little or no frustration at a very reasonable cost.
